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Old 08-07-2007, 02:48 AM   #11
pirate504
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I've done both now and personally I prefer fly sparging since I'm never much in a hurry when I'm brewing.

The one thing I didn't like doing with batch sparging was stiring up all the grains and having to think about my lauder turn get plugged with grain sediment ( I have a loop of braided SS I use as a filter medium) ...not to mention having to recirculate again.


heres a write up I found about the subject:

http://www.bayareamashers.org/content/maindocs/BatchSparging.htm



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Old 08-07-2007, 02:57 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajf
As I understand it, fly fishing is a battle of wits between the fisherman and the fish. I don't think it would be fair to encourage the fish to fight an unarmed man. eh?

-a.

Isn't the fisherman armed with a fishing pole???


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Old 08-07-2007, 03:31 AM   #13
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Just a thought on the batch vs. fly sparge debate...

Who cares what your efficiency is?!?
Let's say you want an OG of 1.055:
60% efficiency: you need ~13 lb of base malt
70% efficiency: you need ~11 lb of base malt
80% efficiency: you need ~9.75 lb of base malt

That's a whopping delta of like 5 bucks between 60 and 80% efficiency.

Commercial brewers need to watch their efficiency because they need to make a profit, which is also why they use things like corn, rice, and US 2-row malt.

But we homebrewers are free from such concerns.

Hey, go after your high efficiency. Waste is a bad thing. But don't sweat it.

Fly sparge? Awesome.
Batch sparge? Great!

Have some fun, make some beer, then tip a couple of those babies down and watch the sunset.

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Old 08-07-2007, 02:56 PM   #14
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Let's say you want an OG of 1.055:
60% efficiency: you need ~13 lb of base malt
70% efficiency: you need ~11 lb of base malt
80% efficiency: you need ~9.75 lb of base malt

That's a whopping delta of like 5 bucks between 60 and 80% efficiency.

This was a bit confusing but I got it. What you are saying is that if I am at 60% efficiency and want to hit a target of 55 points then what I need is 13lbs of grain. If my system is 80% efficient then, for 55 points, I would only need ~10lbs.

When you put it that way, even for MPBs, why saccrifice taste for a few grand a year? $hi~! at $8-$9 a six, they can make it up quickly and would probably gain more respect IMHO!

- WW

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Old 08-07-2007, 03:12 PM   #15
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I've been batch sparging with a 10 gallon water cooler & a SS braid since I went All Grain and am very happy with the beers I've been turning out. I don't have my brew hut built yet or my brew sculpture, so I only use gravity from MLT to the kettle, to the fermenter. I don't see a need to change as it ain't broke and I enjoy the speed of batch sparging and 82% efficiency. Some day I might get setup for fly sparging.

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Old 08-07-2007, 03:13 PM   #16
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basically......

batch sparge, add 1/2 lb more grain to make up with the 5% less efficiency, but save over an hour of your time. Ive fly sparged once, and when only doing 5 gallon batches, batch sparging is by far much easier.

Now moving up to 10 gallon+ batches, its going to be much more difficult to batch sparge. It can be done, yes but I still dont like the idea of lifting more than 5 gallons of 180* water up to the tun

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Old 08-07-2007, 03:32 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chimone
Now moving up to 10 gallon+ batches, its going to be much more difficult to batch sparge. It can be done, yes but I still dont like the idea of lifting more than 5 gallons of 180* water up to the tun
I use a two quart pitcher (while wearing a glove) to quickly add water to my MLT till the kettle is down to a liftable amount and then I pour in the rest. Works well for me and so far I only use the table.
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Old 08-07-2007, 03:49 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chimone
Now moving up to 10 gallon+ batches, its going to be much more difficult to batch sparge. It can be done, yes but I still dont like the idea of lifting more than 5 gallons of 180* water up to the tun
Yeah, that little detail thwarted my plans to do 10 gal batches. That, and I realized I need a stand to handle 10 gals. My current setup works well, but I need something that can hold the extra weight if I upscale.

Like you say, though, for 5 gallon batches it is no problem. In fact, I think this is an under-appreciated benefit of batch sparging. You really don't need a three-tier, gravity feed system or a pump setup, which translates into a slightly more convenient setup and/or less gear.

I just put my MLT on the ground and add my sparge water directly from the tap on my kettle and then lift the MLT up onto a shelf to mash and drain back into the kettle. No need for a lifting to the top of a multi-tier stand/ use of a pump that is preferred by fly spargers. It also means that I can be really portable with my system and brew indoors or outdoors or both, depending on the weather. Or I could easily through everything in my car and brew at a buddy's house or something. I guess you could do the same with a fly-sparge system, but it wouldn't be quite as simple or convenient.
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Old 08-07-2007, 10:08 PM   #19
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Thanks for all the input! I thnk that I will try batch sparging for the first go around. Are there any pitfalls that I should be aware of?

My understanding of the method is pretty limited. Here is my basic understanding.

1) You mash for one hour, then recurculate the first runnings and drain completely.
2) You place all or half of your sparge water in the tun, stir, let rest for 15 minutes, recurculate and drain?

Is the equation for the sparge water temp and volume the same as when you do fly?

Any anput is greatly appreciated!

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Old 08-07-2007, 10:13 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by New2HomeBrew
...Here is my basic understanding.

1) You mash for one hour, then recurculate the first runnings and drain completely.
2) You place all or half of your sparge water in the tun, stir, let rest for 15 minutes, recurculate and drain?

Is the equation for the sparge water temp and volume the same as when you do fly?
The topic of whether to add all your sparge water or half will be dictated by the size of your mash tun and your desired boil volume (shoot for 6.5 gallons). I’d say for your first go around, just sparge with as much water as it takes to get your desired volume.

Sparge water can and should be hotter than your mash water because the conversion has already taken place at the 155 degree area. The hotter water (170-180) will do a better job of rinsing the grains.


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