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Old 05-26-2008, 07:44 PM   #11
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oh. Okay! the site bobby M referred me to is a great resource. His process is kinda how I was thinking. But, then I started reading and looking at everyone elses set up and I got very confused. Okay so. If I mashed the 5lbs in 2 gallons. and then sparged with 3 gallons 1.5 gallons at a time. This is a pretty efficient and easy procedure? What temperature water is good for something like this? after lautering would I just continue with the boil as planned?

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Old 05-26-2008, 07:47 PM   #12
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If I have a 12 gallon cooler now. Could I use it for my 5 gallon batch? I thought that would leave it too thin? Wouldn't sparging with that hot of water release tannins? I'm confused again.

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Old 05-26-2008, 08:01 PM   #13
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I just wanted to say that the SueBob article was really helpful for me, I was thinking about starting Partial Mash, but I may just go to AG, very very clear and informative.

-thanks

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Old 05-26-2008, 08:06 PM   #14
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oh. Okay! the site bobby M referred me to is a great resource. His process is kinda how I was thinking. But, then I started reading and looking at everyone elses set up and I got very confused. Okay so. If I mashed the 5lbs in 2 gallons. and then sparged with 3 gallons 1.5 gallons at a time. This is a pretty efficient and easy procedure? What temperature water is good for something like this? after lautering would I just continue with the boil as planned?
You dont HAVE to use the half and half method when sparging (1.5lbs/1.5lbs). If you can lift 3 lbs of water, do it. From what I have read and learned (trust me, its been a ton, I have been in your same shoes), shoot for about 152 for the mash, and 170 for the sparge. A good rule of thumb is to heat your water to about 10-11 degrees F higher than those temps (163 to hit 152 Mash, 180 or so to hit 170 Sparge). There are calculators if you want to get exact. However, the key to doing this is to relax and dont worry so much.
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Old 05-26-2008, 08:12 PM   #15
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With batch sparging, the size of the cooler really doesn't matter too much. It's the heat of the water and the stirring that dissolves the sugars.
If you are worried about tannin extraction, have some cold water ready to bring the temperature down a bit. It will take quite a bit of heat to bring the grain up to sparge temps (170F), and the cooler will absorb quite a bit more. Tannin extraction requires time, heat, and a high pH, none of which would be applicable to a batch sparge.

-a.

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Old 05-26-2008, 08:19 PM   #16
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Oh, thank you for clarifying that. So I could use my 12 gallon cooler. Leaving the option open to do larger batches if I so choose. That saved my day. I was sitting here thinking about the cost of another cooler and all that nonsense. So really all I need is some Braided SS, a valve, some washers, and some fittings. I swear I say it every day but the people on this forum are awesome. They make my life complete.

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Old 05-26-2008, 09:25 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by EamusCatuli View Post
I just wanted to say that the SueBob article was really helpful for me, I was thinking about starting Partial Mash, but I may just go to AG, very very clear and informative.

-thanks
Thanks. I'm the Bob in suebob :-) I put that page together on a slow afternoon at work and I continue to tweak it as I learn more.
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Old 05-26-2008, 11:44 PM   #18
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I would also recommend going with at least 10 gallons for a mash tun as well. You may not need it this go round, but sooner or later, you'll be mashing something that goes above 5 gallons. I'm brewing my 4th all grain right now......and my 3rd one was a Russian Imperial Stout: fly sparging, I still went right up to 10 gallons for a 5 gallon batch. So if you have a 12 gallon one, that should do you.

As a beginer, I can say that if you follow a guidebook for fly sparging, it's really not hard. The main advantage of batch sparging is cost: you don't need an extra lauter tun for holding sparge water. Even though I didn't have enough sparge water reserved during my first AG, my effeciency was still near 80 percent (and I did a gutsy move of using hot sink water for my remaining sparge). As long as your sparge water is hot enough, I'm certain that you can get similar effeciency for either batch or fly. I just like the idea of fly sparging better for my own methods....YMMV. I think the best way to think of grain brewing is treating it like coffee. Some coffe people like percolators (which is like fly sparging), while others like french presses (which are like batch sparges). In the end, they'll both give you good coffee.

I think the primary reasons why I started off with good effeciencies were grains that I personally milled (and made sure that the husks were present with flour bits as well). I also followed step infusion recipes: starting off with a protein rest first (ie 132 degree for 30 mins, add boiling water to get 155 degree mash for 30 mins, then add boiling water to get 167 for 10 mins....then sparge). When you start doing step, though, that does start adding to your mash volumes. I like to tinker, while other people like to keep things more simple. It looks like the simplest thing for you to try is a batch sparge with a mash at 153 degrees for 60 mins. This is the main calculator I use for figuring out my strike temperatures:

http://www.rackers.org/calcs.shtml

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Old 05-27-2008, 05:39 AM   #19
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Do you think that I'm going to have any problems with a stuck sparge? I have 5 lbs of wheat. I'm going to use a braided stainless steel hose. I've read the people have had a lot of success using them.

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