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05-26-2008, 06:45 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Richfield, UT.
Posts: 368
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Fly sparge vs. Batch?
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I'm doing a partial in a couple weeks. I still need to build an MLT. What is the differences between batch and fly sparging? I can't seem to figure it out. Which is easier/cheaper? I bought some wheat under the impression that I could simply steep it prior to adding my hops and extract and now I'm confusing myself trying to figure this all out. I guess I can look on the bright side. I'll be one step closer to all grain.
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05-26-2008, 06:50 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sierra Vista, AZ
Posts: 4,101
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Ive done about 60 batch sparges, but did my first fly sparge yesterday. I must say I really like fly sparging much more. It's just easier.
Efficiency was a bit better, and the grain bed only had to be set once. And I didnt have to lift 3-4 gallons of 180* sparge water up to the kettle.
__________________
Desert Sky Brewing Co.
Sierra Vista, AZ
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05-26-2008, 06:56 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Richfield, UT.
Posts: 368
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What's the difference? I'm very confused.
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05-26-2008, 06:56 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 942
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Batch sparge is easier IMHO for beginners.
http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter17.html
The continuous sparge is the same as fly sparge. Do a search on homebrewtalk and you will find plenty of threads to help.
Basically fly sparge is when you rinse the grains continuosly by adding the same amount of water to the tun as your draining. Batch sparge is when you just dump the whole tun and then add more water, then drain that and repeat until your done.
Last edited by jcarson83; 05-26-2008 at 06:58 PM.
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05-26-2008, 07:00 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Piscataway, NJ
Posts: 19,424
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Read this: www.suebob.com/brew/allgrain.htm Man, I feel like I've been pimping it a lot lately but anything I'd type here is already there.
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BrewHardware.com
Sightglass, Refractometer, Ball Valve, Weldless bulkhead, Thermometer, Decals, Stainless Steel Fittings, Compression Fittings, Camlock Quick Disconnects, Scale, RIMS tube, Plate Chiller, Chugger Pump, Super Clear Silicone Tubing, and more!
Personal Website, All Grain Primer, Keg Polishing, etc... | Youtube Channel
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05-26-2008, 07:01 PM
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#6
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Mmm...beer.
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Southwest
Posts: 12,350
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This question comes up fairly often, and it's the subject of much debate. A forum search will likely yield more results than you care to read through. It boils down to this:
Batch sparging is faster, requires less equipment, and is generally considered easier. It MAY result in slightly lower efficiency, but the difference is rather slight.
Fly sparging requires a bit more equipment (potentially a pump, if you don't have a tiered setup), takes more time, requires more attention, and is generally considered somewhat difficult in comparison. Fly sparging is a more traditional brew method and can be done with great success, but it can definitely be a daunting task for a beginner.
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05-26-2008, 07:09 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Piscataway, NJ
Posts: 19,424
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I would further suggest that batch sparging is probably more realistic in a partial mash situation.
__________________
BrewHardware.com
Sightglass, Refractometer, Ball Valve, Weldless bulkhead, Thermometer, Decals, Stainless Steel Fittings, Compression Fittings, Camlock Quick Disconnects, Scale, RIMS tube, Plate Chiller, Chugger Pump, Super Clear Silicone Tubing, and more!
Personal Website, All Grain Primer, Keg Polishing, etc... | Youtube Channel
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05-26-2008, 07:12 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Long Island
Posts: 4,047
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Fly sparging requires suitable equipment. A cylindrical MLT with false bottom, and sparge arm is probably optimum, but many inventive forum members get good results with other equipment. It also requires more attention to detail, and usually takes longer, but in return, you may get slightly higher efficiency.
Batch sparging is faster, slightly easier, and a lot cheaper to build suitable equipment. The only real disadvantage to batch sparging that I can see is that you require more space in the MLT to hold the sparge water. I usually fly sparge because my MLT is too small to batch sparge the brews I like to make, but if I had a bigger MLT, I would probably switch to batch.
-a.
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05-26-2008, 07:16 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Richfield, UT.
Posts: 368
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Okay So if I were to batch sparge the 5 lbs of wheat. And build a laughter tun out of a 5 gallon cooler. I would just fill it wait for 60 minutes recirculate for a minute and then drain into my brewpot and continue the batch as normal?
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05-26-2008, 07:42 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Long Island
Posts: 4,047
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There is a bit more to it than that, but only a little bit.
Before you start sparging, you need to mash. To do this, you need to mix the milled grain with a small amount of water (1 - 2 qts water per lb grain). After mixing, you want the temperature to be about 154. There are lots of on-line calculators (google mash temp calculator, or search this forum for links). For the first time, I would recommend using 1 qt water per lb, and have a supply of hot (freshly boiled) and cold water to adjust the temp if required. This will thin out the mash a bit. When you have the temperature right, you leave it for 60 minutes, and then sparge.
The sparge consists of adding about 2 qts 175 - 180F water per lb grain, stirring well, recirculating a couple qts wort (until the wort does not contain any grain particles), and then draining the rest of the wort into the brewpot and continue as normal.
If you are thinking of goings AG in the future, you may want to consider a 10g cooler. I fly sparge because I have a 5g cooler.
-a.
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