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Old 10-26-2012, 09:54 PM   #11
Soldevi
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I use an auto siphon for transfers.

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Old 03-22-2013, 12:36 AM   #12
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A little update on this.

ITS STILL HAPPENING......

I've brewed Orfy's mild twice and Lil'Sparkys brown. I also have my first IPA in the fermenter. I need to figure this out, its driving me crazy. Its the only thing keeping from buying store bought beer all the time.

My thermometers seem accurate enough. I just recently bought a CDN. And checked them all with boiling and ice water. My process is a typical cooler mash tun and SS boil kettle. I've tried both Nottingham and liquid Wyeast yeast. This IPA I used US05 and I'll find out in a couple weeks.

You guys mentioned oxidation. Could it really get oxidized this fast? I ferment in a bucket for about 14-21 days depending. Every beer has had this. In the mild I used Marris Otter and it turned out a little better but its still there.

One of my friends tried the brown and said that it tasted like a brown for a split second and then no flavor.

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Old 03-22-2013, 12:50 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soldevi View Post
A little update on this.

ITS STILL HAPPENING......

I've brewed Orfy's mild twice and Lil'Sparkys brown. I also have my first IPA in the fermenter. I need to figure this out, its driving me crazy. Its the only thing keeping from buying store bought beer all the time.

My thermometers seem accurate enough. I just recently bought a CDN. And checked them all with boiling and ice water. My process is a typical cooler mash tun and SS boil kettle. I've tried both Nottingham and liquid Wyeast yeast. This IPA I used US05 and I'll find out in a couple weeks.

You guys mentioned oxidation. Could it really get oxidized this fast? I ferment in a bucket for about 14-21 days depending. Every beer has had this. In the mild I used Marris Otter and it turned out a little better but its still there.

One of my friends tried the brown and said that it tasted like a brown for a split second and then no flavor.
Oxidation could be one reason for this flavor (or rather, lack of). But I'm wondering about your water chemistry. What kind of water do you use, and do you have any idea of the make up?
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Old 03-22-2013, 03:44 AM   #14
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I use my tap water but I filter it with one of these. Filter

It says its an active carbon filter.

If I understand it right I have pretty soft water. What I have been doing is adding a teaspoon of each calcium chloride and gypsum to each 5 gallons of water used. I typically treat 10 gallons and then use what i need. I just recently found out that I shouldn't be treating the water by itself because the salts wont dissolve. Oh, also I put 2% acid malt in the grist as per the brewing water primer.

Everett Water

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Old 03-22-2013, 04:08 AM   #15
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A couple other things to add. I have built a fermentation chamber with a STC-1000 controller, it works great. So I do have temp control and a stir plate and have been trying to pitch proper rates according to Mr.Malty. The last few batches were fermented @ 63*. This IPA is fermenting @ 68*.

I still have some of the brown ale and is now almost 6 weeks old. Nice and clear from the keg.

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Old 03-22-2013, 04:26 AM   #16
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This might be a stretch, but since you're using tap water it could be astringency you're experiencing from too high of pH sparge water. It sounds like you are doing everything else right, so I think Yooper's onto something with your water. You should at a minimum get a water report and maybe look into checking you pH levels throughout. Mash, sparge, boil, finished beer, etc. One easy thing to do to eliminate any chance of astringency is to sparge with RO water to ensure your pH isn't getting over 6.

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