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Old 09-06-2012, 08:10 PM   #11
Maxkling
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Brewing TV Episode 34.

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Old 09-06-2012, 08:23 PM   #12
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I've watched the videos about 3 or four times. He does a great job explaining the process and gives you some calculations. The third time I watched, I kept a pen and paper handy to define my process and what calcs I needed when.
same here

i typed up my own list of steps to make it easy to go down the checklist during brewday
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:24 PM   #13
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Great episode!
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Old 09-06-2012, 11:32 PM   #14
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Boil nothing unless your pH is good. Here's what's going to happen: Since you may not know where your water chemistry is and attention to pH is not considered. Along with an over extended protein rest. You will brew an incipid, tannic beer.

Step 1: Get the mash pH right. Use sauer malz and rest at 100 F until the mash gets close to 5.2 pH. You can use lactic. Stay away from it until you get more experienced.

Step 2: Once mash pH is good, pull the 1st decoction.

Step 3: When the 1st decoction begins to boil. Fire the mash tun and begin raising the mash from 100 F to 130 F. Doing this will take the mash through all the lower temp regions needed for other things to occur during sac rests. Dump in the decoction after boiling. If you don't hit 147 F, fire tun to hit the 1st sac, or cool with water if you go too far.

Step 4: Pull the 2nd decoction and do your thing with the temps and boil. Now here's the thing. The mash in the tun will have probably converted by the time you dump in the 2nd decoction. That's OK. Dump in the 2nd decoction.

Step 5: Once the mash has converted. Pull the 3rd decoction of mainly liquid and bring to a boil. Dump it in the tun to hit mash out 168 F. Fire tun if needed.

Step 6: After mash out, transfer mash to the lautertun and rest for a few minutes. Preferably, long enough until the liquid above the mash is clear and the mud has settled on top of the mash.

Step 7: Do the vorlauf thing. Then, begin the fly sparge. Run off using 170 F water. Stop sparging before the wort pH goes haywire. If the mash in the lautertun drops below 168 F, no big deal.

Step 8: Boil wort passed the hot break and dump in the hops. Boil for another hour or two. Run wort through a hopback and cool ASAP to pitching temp and pour in a few liters of starter. The hopback will filter out goop. Before dumping in the yeast, take a wort sample and cool it, do the OG thing. If the wort is clear, very good. If not the beer will be cloudy.

A couple of things to be concerned about: Mash pH and becareful not to scorch the mash when boiling. If you scorch the mash. Start over. The beer will be ruined. Be more concerned with the process, than how much alcohol or efficiency you want. Stay at it and once you get consistent, you'll find that decoction is fun and makes a finer product. You'll make some mistakes. It's a learning curve. You'll do fine. You'll need to age out your beer for a few months. So, brew something different if you don't want to wait.

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Old 09-07-2012, 01:25 PM   #15
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Thanks for the tips, I am going to use water salts as the EZ Water Calculator specifies... I would imagine that would get me the correct pH, correct? I ask because I do not have pH testing available for me to use during the mash, I rely on the calculations in the EZ Water Calculator.

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Old 09-07-2012, 07:24 PM   #16
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Thanks for the tips, I am going to use water salts as the EZ Water Calculator specifies... I would imagine that would get me the correct pH, correct? I ask because I do not have pH testing available for me to use during the mash, I rely on the calculations in the EZ Water Calculator.
Honestly, if you don't have proper way of testing and correcting your mash pH, then don't worry about it. If you haven't had issues in the past with tannin extraction with a normal mash then I wouldn't worry about it, especially with your first decoction. Your going to have issues hitting numbers and getting your process down right so, don't go for perfection. If when the beer is complete and you have "tannin off flavors" then you'll know most likely you have pH issues.

Enjoy the process and brewing experience, leave the in-depth details for your next round.
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:32 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Maxkling

Honestly, if you don't have proper way of testing and correcting your mash pH, then don't worry about it. If you haven't had issues in the past with tannin extraction with a normal mash then I wouldn't worry about it, especially with your first decoction. Your going to have issues hitting numbers and getting your process down right so, don't go for perfection. If when the beer is complete and you have "tannin off flavors" then you'll know most likely you have pH issues.

Enjoy the process and brewing experience, leave the in-depth details for your next round.
I hope this isn't too off topic, but can anyone describe tannin off flavors? Just curious.
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:38 PM   #18
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. You'll need to age out your beer for a few months. So, brew something different if you don't want to wait.
Why would he need to age the beer longer if using decoction?

i've never heard this before
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:15 PM   #19
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I hope this isn't too off topic, but can anyone describe tannin off flavors? Just curious.
A burnt bitter flavor that overpowers everything, not a firm malty flavor. Almost like unsweetened tea in a concentrated amount.
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:23 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxkling

A burnt bitter flavor that overpowers everything, not a firm malty flavor. Almost like unsweetened tea in a concentrated amount.
Glad that I have never tasted that before. Thanks for the info.
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