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Old 04-10-2013, 05:18 PM   #11
mdgagne
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Congrats on your plunge into homebrewing... who says you have learn to walk before you can run? Anyway - I don't use US-05 often, but I do use WL001 (same strain). I always ramp up the temperatures (3-5 degrees) after high krausen. I've had more consistent attenuation following this schedule.



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Old 04-10-2013, 05:33 PM   #12
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Any tips/hints/comments for my first beer ever???
Congrats, welcome to the addiction! Please keep us posted with how everything goes, right up to your first tasting.

As others have already noted, you should rehydrate your dry yeast in a measuring cup, rather than just sprinkling it on top of your wort.

Also, you don't need to aerate the wort when pitching dry yeast. It's only necessary when using liquid yeast.

Watch those temperatures, can't wait to hear how it turns out!


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Old 04-10-2013, 06:49 PM   #13
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Good on ya, mate.

I've been lurking the various brewing forums for a couple months now... researching, planning, etc. Hoping to finish up my equipment selection in the near future and finally pull the trigger.

I'll be taking a similar approach (minus the kegging) on my first shot. It's inspiring to see people approach the hobby with such fervor.

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Old 04-18-2013, 03:48 AM   #14
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Update:

Finally got around to my first ever racking/kegging tonight. I ended up fermenting in primary for 5 days at 63* and then bumped it up to 66* for 3 more days. Then I cold crashed at 35* for 36 hours. The beer was clear as could be. Kegging took a bit longer than expected due to an initial dirty keg. After lots of oxiclean, scrubbing, and sanitizer I put it all back together and racked it to the keg. Put 2psi to the keg and burped it several times, then turned up the regulator to 12psi. My plan is to let it sit two weeks and carb up, which by that time I will have brewed my second beer (Red Rye IPA) and will force carb that and end up with two beers on tap from the get go!

FG ended up being 1.008. The US-05 definitely did their work and I think the fermentation chamber definitely helped. The sample tasted good, but had a bit of an aftertaste I'm not sure I can place. I am still very new so I will see how it tastes after carbing up. I may not yet have the palate for uncarbed beer taste. One thing to note is the hoppy aroma I had post-boil was not evident at all. I racked on top of 1oz Centennial in a sanitized muslin bag so we will see if that brings it out.

One thing I did forget was to tilt the fermentor when racking. I lost about a pint due to that inexeperience. It start sucking air and I got paranoid about oxygenation so I just pulled the cane out without thinking. .Oh well, still excited about my first brew! RRyePA is scheduled for this Saturday!

edit: Now that I think about it I forgot to purge the keg with c02 before I racked it after sanitization. Ech, well hopefully I didn't splash too much on the initial fill...

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Old 04-27-2013, 11:22 PM   #15
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Update:

After 9 days on the gas at 12psi, I had to take a taste. Poured extremely smooth, my system must be balanced perfectly because I couldn't get foam even if I wanted to. Still VERY undercarbed. Upfront taste and smell was pretty good, but there was this aftertaste that lingered on the tongue. I am trying to figure out if it's cardboardish or bandaidish but I don't think my palate has developed enough to know. I don't know if "green" beers have some sort of slight lingering taste? If not I suspect either oxidation or chloramine...

Tonight (day 10) I tried another pull. Seemed slightly more carbed, but still zero head or foam. Taste seemed improved, but still the aftertaste on the back of the tongue. Out of frustration I bumped the psi to 20 and will leave it there for 12 hours and then bring it back down to 12 and burp the keg a few times.

The two possibilities on my mind are my kegging incident from the above post, and chloramine from my water. Looking back I made a few mistakes. In the interest of saving time I ran hot water through the MoreBeer water filter rather than cold, and at full pressure. I also didn't even soak the vinyl lines or filter system in pbw and rinse. So I'm thinking that may be the case and I have oxidation on my hands. Oh well, once it's carbd up that just means I have to drink it quicker

I fixed the above mistake on my second brew, by cleaning and rinsing my water filter system, and running cold water through the filter very slow while filling my BK. I will see how that one tastes at kegging later this week. I am also planning on buying campden tablets to throw in with my water just to be sure, since they are cheap insurance.

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Old 04-29-2013, 03:50 AM   #16
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Even after hitting FG, a lot is still happening in there from weeks 2-4.

If you let it age a little longer than 2 weeks, the yeast will condition the beer further. You will achieve more clarity and better flavor. Usually if I am not planning on going to secondary, I let it sit at least 3 weeks in primary. Granted I bottle my beer, I don't keg...

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Old 04-30-2013, 05:02 PM   #17
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With Irish Moss and cold crashing, the beer is very clear. For the bigger brews I plan to make I will do 2+ week in primary before cold crashing. I figure the extended aging in the keg will help as well as I don't plan on emptying these for quite some time.

I am still trying to figure out why the beer is carbonated, but has zero head. I don't think it is the glassware, as they are the same glasses I use for all my other beers, which have great head. Even pouring directly in and not down the side was producing zero foam. Possibly thoughts are the lines aren't completely clean of the PBW. So I will rinse and re-rinse with starsan and see if that helps. I worried so much about foam in the setup of my keezer that now I can't even get it if I try (15' lines, fan, etc)!

I bought a bomber of Stone IPA this past weekend and will do a side by side comparison and post up the pics. Hopefully the extra 4-5 days will help with head retention.

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Old 04-30-2013, 05:50 PM   #18
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I am still trying to figure out why the beer is carbonated, but has zero head.
Isn't that usually a product of the recipe? High alcohol content, low hoppiness, and low protein malts generally all contribute to poor head retention. Conversely, a sessionable, super-hoppy IPA with a half-pound of Carafoam should have more head than ... well, I'll let you fill in the blank.
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Old 04-30-2013, 05:58 PM   #19
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I'm thinking of building some sort of pickup tube for the BK as there was some wort that I missed out on due to the height of the ball valve.
This is the same issue I'm currently working on. For all my brews so far, I've just drained from the BK directly into my fermenter through the ball valve and barb fitting on my boil kettle. I've been able to tip the kettle a bit to get a little extra wort, but generally once the level drops below the level of the valve outlet, the flow stops and I'm left with 1/2 a gallon or so of wort that just gets dumped on my driveway.

Now that I've switched to a plate chiller and pump, I needed a better way to get that last bit of wort, so I bought a Hop Stopper. Hallelujah! Problem solved, right?

Well, not exactly. The 2 times I've used it so far, I've lost suction on the pickup tube once the wort level has dropped down to the screen. The first time, I was unaware that you're supposed to throttle back the flow to keep the line primed. The second time, I throttled it back to a trickle, but still lost suction with a good gallon or so of wort left in the kettle. Next time, I guess I'll throttle it back even further, but it lost suction even at a trickle, so I'm not sure how much more I can close off the valve without cutting it off completely. Besides, the plate chiller was supposed to make the post-boil steps FASTER. If I'm going to stand there for 20 minutes watching wort dribble into my fermenter, I might as well just go back to my immersion chiller.
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Old 04-30-2013, 09:19 PM   #20
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I also have foam issues at the start of a keg. Seems to not have any for about 6-10 pints, and then its like the extra head space in the keg helps out, or it just takes a while to become fully carbed. my beer lines are 1/4 id and about 3 feet long.



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