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Old 02-03-2006, 08:07 PM   #21
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well, I guess when I said bulk I meant like a pound or two. What is technically considered bulk?

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Old 02-03-2006, 08:11 PM   #22
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I did this year buy some hops in 'bulk' that I know I use a lot. Around 8 oz was what I considered bulk just to see how it would go. I know they'll degrade over time regardless of what you do, but so far they seem to be holding up well (good color, good aroma, lupulin glands look healthy). I think a great system would be to buy a lb or so at a time, and then use a vacuum sealer to seal them off in 1oz freezeable packets.

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Old 02-03-2006, 08:16 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeGee
I think a great system would be to buy a lb or so at a time, and then use a vacuum sealer to seal them off in 1oz freezeable packets.
That's exactly what I was thinking, but those vacuum sealers are kind of expensive. I can think of better brewing equipment to drop that much on. . . .
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Old 02-03-2006, 08:21 PM   #24
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Yeah, I'd pretty much need another use for a vacuum sealer before buying one (I take Alton Brown's 'no singletasker' advice seriously!). But so far doublebagging with the air squeezed out seems to be working for me. And these are leaf hops I'm talking about...I imagine pellet hops would store even better.

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Old 02-03-2006, 11:38 PM   #25
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Ian, I hope everything goes well. If you did your homework, then I'm sure it will. I've only done 8 or so batches of AG with the majority of them being lagers. Lets hear all about it when you can post to see how you made out. Cheers.

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Old 02-06-2006, 12:47 PM   #26
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well, I'm now an "all-grain" brewer. I hope it turns out, it didn't go without its fair share of mishap.

The main one being that I ran out of propane just as the boil started. So I had to zip to the convenience store and get a replacement tank. All the while my wort is cooling. It only cooled to about 205 before I got the heat back on it.

The mash tun worked like a charm, although it never really got less cloudy as I repoured the runnings back in to settle the grain bed. Not too worried about that. It held the initial temp throughout the mash, I was surprised that I didn't notice any drop.

It did have tons of chunks in it that I'm think are just protein strands.
This morning (I brewed yesterday) I don't see much yeast activity yet, but am not panicking yet. I used a whirlfloc tablet in this batch and I will say that this is the clearest its ever been in primary.

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Old 02-06-2006, 03:08 PM   #27
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Nice work! Definitely give it 24hrs to get pumping, although some start faster. Did you take any efficiency readings?

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Old 02-06-2006, 03:29 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeGee
Did you take any efficiency readings?
Not really sure how to do efficiency readings but it had a pre-boil gravity of 1.04 (that was taken right before the last batch sparge so it might be off a little). I forgot to take a reading before pitching yeast.
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Old 02-06-2006, 03:39 PM   #29
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The way I do it is take a gravity reading after all my runoff is complete and in the kettle. That way I have a reasonably accurate volume reading which is pretty important. I then compare that gravity reading to the theoretical yield for my grainbill at that volume. The main point is to see if you can improve your efficiency and thereby use less grains while achieving the same gravity.

Off the top of my head, and not knowing your pre-boil volume, I think 1.04 is a good pre-boil SG for 8.5# of grain...your batch sparge would have lowered that # a bit, but I'd still say it's pretty reasonable.

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Old 02-06-2006, 04:04 PM   #30
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The pre-boil volume was about 6 gallons. Using BobbyC's Beer Alchemy program we estimate that the pre-ferment gravity was about 1.042 and that the efficiency was around 75%. Estimating because there wasn't an exact volume measurement or actual pre-ferment gravity. I'm fairly pleased with that, as long as the dang yeast gets to work!

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