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Old 01-11-2013, 10:17 AM   #21
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Won't help you now but; yes you can boil off extra wort but remember when doing that you increase your hop utilization so with more time comes higher IBU and less aroma for any hops in the kettle already. Your color will also be negligibly darker ( less so in all grain than for extract).

If you boil an extra 30 min then add 30 min to the hop additions in this recipe. you can assume little to no hop aroma for anything over 30-40 min in the boil ( which if you added them in already would be all of them) which may not be as bad as it sounds given the relatively low IBUs
that's what I hoped I could do. I only put 1.25 oz of hops in the full boil and waited till the hour mark to add my 15 minute addition. I delayed them on purpose for that reason. my IBU's will probably be a bit higher with my bittering but it was only 39.8 ibus to begin with.... x fingers .... next time I'll try to mash out with less sparge water (was trying to do the 1.5 guarts per lb of grain that was recommended but that turned out to be too much....) maybe next time I'll try a no sparge biab using the full boil amount.
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:26 PM   #22
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well, I wasn't as off as I expected ... I got 3.5 gallons of liquid in the fermentor INCLUDING the hop trub from the boil pot (I wanted all those nice tasty hop residues to be in the fermontor since they'll just settle out in 3 weeks or so). it would have been 3 gallons EXACTLY if I'd have left the trub behind. but close enough...

my efficiency was a bit low (63%) because of my high mash temp I believe, and the fact that I splashed wort from my mast pot all over the stovetop and myself, giving me a 1.043 OG... meaning only a 4.1% IPA instead of the 5.5 I was aiming for but ya can't win em all. wort was a nice sweet taste with a nice kick in the teeth hop profile. according to hopville's calc It's about 50 IBU's bittered due to the 80 minute boil

used a 1 liter of liquid starter I made 2 days ago with re-washed s-04 (1 liter of liquid in a 2 liter bottle) so for 3 gallons I should have MORE than enough yeast to get that IPA as low as it'll go with the amount of sugars in there.

I know it was a bit of an ooooops day with me messing up quite a few things ,but I was surprised it took me about 5 - 5.5 hours for the full brew day (usually 2.5 - 3 hours for an extract day due to being able to cut my cooling time in half or 1/3rd by using chilled top off water and not having to do an hour and a half mash time). still it was kinda fun and the cheapness of it is definitely a pull from extract. especially for simple brews like SMaSH IPA/APA's etc. I think next time I'm gonna do a no sparge BIAB or use a "sprinkle" sparge to top off to what I need. I think due to the size of the turkey fryer I have now I can get away with doing a 4 gallon BIAB next time...... I'm not sure if I'll be able to do all grain once summer hits since I live in arizona and don't have a worth chiller (have to use bottles of ice in the tub) and it was difficult enough putting the wort outside in a rope tub filled with water in 37 degree weather in the middle of the night vs 85-110 degree weather outside in the summer


I think I'll try a SMaSH APA or just duplicate this one again to try and see if I can do it better next time.

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Old 01-13-2013, 10:55 AM   #23
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ok, wow, that's all I can say. my heater broke last night and I woke up with the house 57 degrees and my ale pale on tile floor. I panicked thinking I might have killed my yeast by it getting too low. I grabbed a sample with a beer thief and checked the temps... still sitting at 63 degrees... not too bad. I decided to check my gravity readings ... and with a 1.043 OG it was an expected attenuation of 73% and 1.012 FG.... I just came in at 1.006 final!!! (meaning 84% attenuation)

being that it attenuated that much , that fast should I dry hop NOW or wait a week or so before dry hopping. the krausen was GONE and the IPA was pretty darn clear (surprised the crap out of me actually).

the taste is pretty darn solid, a little "simple" so to speak due to it being just 2-row and cascade , but pretty darn tasty without being dryhopped even

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Old 01-13-2013, 01:39 PM   #24
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Leave it be. Your into this, what- 3 days now? Maybe 4. It's very possible that your at FG but you need to let things calm down before dry hopping it or to stand the potential of having co2 scrub out the hop character

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Old 01-13-2013, 02:15 PM   #25
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Leave it be. Your into this, what- 3 days now? Maybe 4. It's very possible that your at FG but you need to let things calm down before dry hopping it or to stand the potential of having co2 scrub out the hop character
ok, I was just wondering If I should dry hop because I've seen a lot of posts saying to dry hop JUST as the primary fermentation is winding down so the co2 bubbling can "mix" the hops in instead of letting it settle. I was just raising an eyebrow cuz this was the fastest ferment I've seen yet (attributing to one helluva starter)
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:10 PM   #26
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welp, dry hopped after a week in primary. smells great, all Krausen has fallen and my FG was holding steading at 1.005.... NOW

I decided to brew up Yoopers Dogfish head 60 minute clone all grain style. a LOT smoother this time, no exploding wort, nothing seemed to go wrong. Even was able to cool the brew in about an hour.... my only problem still seems to be efficiency..... I was supposed to get a 1.061 OG reading, but I only got a 1.051 (giving me 62% efficiency according to to Hopville's beer calculus. ( a little bit better than I did last time. wondering why, I mashed at 148-150 for 90 minutes. squeezed the grain bags out like a leprechaun and his bag of gold.... mashed out at 160 degrees in the pot and cooled quick. I ended up with 5.5 gallons instead of 5 gallons due to the hot and cold break in the pot, but nothing wild.... kind of annoying to get that low of an effeciency... might have to compensate by adding another couple of lbs of 2 row next time.

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Old 01-17-2013, 03:17 PM   #27
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I was supposed to get a 1.061 OG reading, but I only got a 1.051 (giving me 62% efficiency according to to Hopville's beer calculus. ( a little bit better than I did last time. wondering why, I mashed at 148-150 for 90 minutes. squeezed the grain bags out like a leprechaun and his bag of gold.... mashed out at 160 degrees in the pot and cooled quick.
How did the crush look? Mine looks a lot like corn meal with husks in it. With BIAB that works well but if I used a conventional mash tun I would have trouble draining because I have too much fine material and the husks are all shredded. It seems that the quality of the crush is what has the most effect on efficiency.
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:27 PM   #28
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How did the crush look? Mine looks a lot like corn meal with husks in it. With BIAB that works well but if I used a conventional mash tun I would have trouble draining because I have too much fine material and the husks are all shredded. It seems that the quality of the crush is what has the most effect on efficiency.
I was just thinking that (oh and I forgot to adjust for temperature. my OG was actually 1.053 after temp adjusting which means my effeciency was actually 64%).... I have to get mine ground at the LHBS due to not having a mill just yet (didn't wanna jump in and get a mill for my first couple all grains..... I don't think it's as fine as what you're describing... even after double crushing at the LHBS.... it looks that fine in SOME areas, but the husks are pretty intact and the grain itself is more like grits than corn meal.
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:18 PM   #29
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I bought a cheap Corona knock off mill that works well for BIAB and with a bit of care could work for a conventional mash tun too, especailly if you condition the malt before milling it so the husks are a bit tougher. The mill I bought was under $30 with shipping and will last me as long as I want to make beer. If you get into making more beer than you want to grind with that kind of mill you can probably sell it for near what it cost you.

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Old 01-17-2013, 04:27 PM   #30
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I bought a cheap Corona knock off mill that works well for BIAB and with a bit of care could work for a conventional mash tun too, especailly if you condition the malt before milling it so the husks are a bit tougher. The mill I bought was under $30 with shipping and will last me as long as I want to make beer. If you get into making more beer than you want to grind with that kind of mill you can probably sell it for near what it cost you.
not a bad idea to get a corona mill. the one nice thing is that I'm actually saving up to get a really nice Grain mill to grind my own flour (like the wondermill), since I adore making my own bread.


http://www.amazon.com/WonderMill-Gra...rds=grain+mill

I'm pretty sure now that I think about it that it's probably a crush issue, cuz I hit EVERYTHING on the nose, I watched my temps, I squeezed the bag, etc... only thing I can think of is my crush.... until I get that sucker it looks like 1.5-2 lbs of cheap 2 row will boost my effecincy for only $1.75-$2.40 more per 5 gallon batch.
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