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Old 02-19-2014, 02:08 PM   #21
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Considering the amount of room you have between your false bottom and the edge of the cooler, I'd suggest skipping the cord stock and buying some 3/8" silicone hose. Slice it down one side and slide it around the edge of the false bottom. The cord stock works in my setup because my false bottom goes right up to the edge of the kettle. On yours, it would make too big of a difference, I suspect.

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Old 02-19-2014, 02:10 PM   #22
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First try this style false bottom:
http://www.homebrewing.org/12-Stainl...om_p_1058.html

There better made with a better seal around the edge to stop grain from getting underneath.

Also for anyone using false bottoms, I stole a page from Blickmann and ordered one of these:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#9421t7/=qrfzgy

316 SS shaft collar, to be used on a SS dip tube with a 90 degree bend. I will warn the the shaft collar only works in the downward end of the dip tube is long enough.

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Old 02-20-2014, 11:21 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KTRyan View Post
First try this style false bottom:
http://www.homebrewing.org/12-Stainl...om_p_1058.html

There better made with a better seal around the edge to stop grain from getting underneath.
I may have to call this company and ask them a few questions or maybe you know the answers. I have a Rubbermaid cooler and I had to bend my connection hose to make it connect. These look like they are shallower and don't require any bending. I don't know if you have ever used one in a cooler before so that may be hard to answer. My question for you is have you ever used the other style of 12" false bottom before? I'm wondering if these have better flow through them and if they are heavier duty or anything. Just trying to see if they are worth spending the money because quite frankly they look awesome. Thanks for the info. I don't have the disposable income I used to or I would have ordered this thing last night to try it out.
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Old 02-20-2014, 11:41 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcbc View Post
Considering the amount of room you have between your false bottom and the edge of the cooler, I'd suggest skipping the cord stock and buying some 3/8" silicone hose. Slice it down one side and slide it around the edge of the false bottom. The cord stock works in my setup because my false bottom goes right up to the edge of the kettle. On yours, it would make too big of a difference, I suspect.
+1 for silicone. Comes in any size you need and good to 428F. I'm using it for edging on keggle rim.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-FEET-4-mm-...item2580c77893
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:01 PM   #25
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Back to sparging, I batch sparge twice, and if the grain still is sweet, I dump it in a bowl with warm water and run thru a strainer until it isn't sweet, or I am at the max for my boil.

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Old 02-20-2014, 02:34 PM   #26
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I've used the same kind of false bottom your using, and they use to drive me nuts. Just like you I thought I solved my problem by hard piping, still no good. Switched the the slotted style and was amazed by the difference. In the hand it feels much more substantial, I'm not sure if its actually a heavier gauge steel or if the design makes it feel like it is. With the style your using the rim of the disk has a lot of partial holes, which makes an imperfect seal even worse. The slotted design (as you can see in my picture) has a smooth rim, which makes a better seal. The flow rate you can achieve is better than the older style, however if your using a pump don't go full throttle, no matter how good your filtering mechanism is you can still compact your grain bed.

With your setup, I'm assuming, you have an elbow with a compression fitting on one end and a nipple on the other. The nipple side goes through the hole in the false bottom and it looks like your using the lock nut that came with your false bottom. Instead of bending the SS tube you should be able to tighten down that lock nut which should put pressure on the false bottom, pinning it in place.

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