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Old 08-02-2011, 05:45 PM   #1
ziggy13
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Default False bottom for coolers

I am considering getting this false bottom for my 10 gallon Igloo cooler: http://www.midwestsupplies.com/revie.../list/id/3404/

Has anyone used it? Is it really as tight as Midwest says in their description? I would rather not scratch the crap out of my cooler, so should I go with this size or a smaller one? What is the dip tube for on the bottom of this false bottom? I can't seem to picture how it functions...

I have been using a bazooka tube and can only achieve 60% efficiency. I am assuming it's due to channeling, so I'm going to buy or make a false bottom and see if I can get my efficiency up to 70 or 80%. I'll take my bazooka tube and put it in my brew kettle.

Are there any other options for false bottoms? I heard something about creating my own by drilling holes in a piece of plastic?

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Old 08-02-2011, 06:11 PM   #2
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I use this same FB and it works great. Haven't had a stuck sparge yet. It fits well in my Gott, you just have to be careful lowering it to the bottom of the cooler as the edges are a bit sharp and could cut into the plastic cooler sides.

Not sure what you mean about the dip tube... the barb connection allows for a small piece of tubing (make sure its temperature rated for your mash temps) to connect to the cooler outlet (put a barb on the inside of the cooler). The liquid passes through the FB grating and back up through the center outlet.

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Old 08-02-2011, 06:16 PM   #3
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I would try a batch sparge if you are using a bazooka tube. If you still have low efficiency, it's not likely your equipment. How does your crush look? Do you have any uncrushed pieces of grain? Every piece should be crushed and relatively free of the husk. If you post a photo, I'm sure you will get comments.

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Old 08-02-2011, 06:19 PM   #4
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I think my crush is okay. I'm using a barley crusher set from the factory and everything definitely gets crushed, no whole pieces get through at all...actually I think it might be creating a bit too much flour, but I don't get stuck sparges so I guess that's okay. I will post a photo this weekend. I was planning on doing a batch sparge to try it this weekend anyways so I'll do that and see if my efficiency goes up.

So for that false bottom I need a male barb to connect to the inside of my ball valve and a length of high temp tubing? I guess I was under the impression the false bottom just sat there and the water passed through to the bottom and out the ball valve. Didn't realize there was tubing needed.

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Old 08-02-2011, 08:49 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ziggy13
So for that false bottom I need a male barb to connect to the inside of my ball valve and a length of high temp tubing? I guess I was under the impression the false bottom just sat there and the water passed through to the bottom and out the ball valve. Didn't realize there was tubing needed.
I think you've almost got it. The domed false bottom creates an area of filtered wort underneath the grain bed. The 90 degree barb in the center of the false bottom connects to the male barb on the back of your ball valve via the high temp tubing. You then suck the wort out of that cavity. The dome is only about 1/2" tall so there shouldn't be much for wasted wort...

Also, the length of high temp tubing was about 5 inches in my case...
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