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Old 12-06-2008, 03:18 PM   #11
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I always dough-in but I do it at 104°F. BeerSmith always nails my strike water temperature but then again I've taken the time to weigh my MLT and set the correct initial temperatures for both the grain and the MLT. I dough-in because I like to do decoction mashes and I want to be sure there are plenty of enzymes in the liquid to get full conversion. My efficiency ranges between 88% and 92% but YMMV.

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Old 12-06-2008, 04:50 PM   #12
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104 would be a acid rest. Highly modified malts will not benefit much from using one. 120 is a protein rest and is usually used for adjunct grains.

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Old 12-06-2008, 05:03 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conroe View Post
104 would be a acid rest. Highly modified malts will not benefit much from using one. 120 is a protein rest and is usually used for adjunct grains.
But well modified grains require hours to lower the pH. We're talking about 20 minutes to allow the enzymes to diffuse out of the grist. Any change in pH is incidental and not a bad thing anyway.
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Primary - Bemused Bitter, Munich Saaz SMaSH
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Bottled - Oatmeal Stout 2011, Apfelwein, Withdrawn Wheat, Bourbon Barrel Barleywine SMaSH, Christmas Ale 2010, Perplexed Pale Ale
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Old 03-23-2013, 04:26 AM   #14
OGER
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I think your all right but slightly wrong,...I just won a Gold and a Best Of Show Silver with this method.
I use two 10 gallon converted coolers then but have recently graduated to a 25 gls false bottom tun. I heat 10 gls of 145degree strike water for 20lbs of grain or less or 150 for 20 or more. I use the traditional 1qt of water to 1lb of grain, I don't preheat nothing, I put have the needed water in each cooler, split the grains in each, top it off and stir. The temp comes to 132-135, let that test for 30 minutes, then drop in 1 pint per lb of boiling water which brings it to 155 for 30-45, then pour in another half a round which should raise it to 158-160 for 10 minutes, then pour 1/4 of your wort out into your kettle and bring just to a boil, put that back in (decoction brewing) which will raise it up to 167-170 and hold that for 20. Recirculate for 15-20 then sparge with 170-175 water. I've been using this method for a while now and my beers cine out soo creamy and heady and rich, 85% almost everytime.


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Old 03-23-2013, 04:47 AM   #15
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Its like there are many ways to skin cats.

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Old 03-23-2013, 08:50 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OGER View Post
I think your all right but slightly wrong,...I just won a Gold and a Best Of Show Silver with this method.
I use two 10 gallon converted coolers then but have recently graduated to a 25 gls false bottom tun. I heat 10 gls of 145degree strike water for 20lbs of grain or less or 150 for 20 or more. I use the traditional 1qt of water to 1lb of grain, I don't preheat nothing, I put have the needed water in each cooler, split the grains in each, top it off and stir. The temp comes to 132-135, let that test for 30 minutes, then drop in 1 pint per lb of boiling water which brings it to 155 for 30-45, then pour in another half a round which should raise it to 158-160 for 10 minutes, then pour 1/4 of your wort out into your kettle and bring just to a boil, put that back in (decoction brewing) which will raise it up to 167-170 and hold that for 20. Recirculate for 15-20 then sparge with 170-175 water. I've been using this method for a while now and my beers cine out soo creamy and heady and rich, 85% almost everytime.


Joy of Honebrewing. Charlie Papazian
That, my friend, is a pain in the tuchas. I find it's simply better to be happy with 80% efficiency and just deal with either having a half gallon less of wort at the SG I want or, if I really really want that 1/2 gallon of wort, simply add some dry malt extract after the sparge to bring the SG up to the correct range.
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