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11-13-2008, 02:49 PM
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#11
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Join Date: Sep 2008
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I don't mash out and I do fly sparge.
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11-26-2008, 11:47 PM
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#12
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Fairhope
Posts: 88
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I use 10 gallon round (igloo) coolers and fly sparge. I don't usually mash out. I just make sure my sparge water is ~170F and I give my mash a good stir with my paddle before I vorlauf. Seems to work just fine. I've tried mashing out, but it didn't seem to make a difference, plus, with the plastic coolers, the only way to mash out is to add more (hotter) water to your mash. I will probably consider it if I ever upgrade to a Brutus type system.
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11-27-2008, 12:16 AM
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#13
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Pepperell, MA
Posts: 3,905
Liked 88 Times on 59 Posts Likes Given: 4
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I'm in slight disagreement with the reasons for mash-out that are commonly given by home brewers. Although it matters little, but mash-out doesn't denature all enzymes. Its temperature is actually chosen such that the alpha amylase is not completely denatured. It is still needed to convert rouge starch that is released during lautering. Not so much a worry of home brewers, but bigger brewers do seem to worry about that. But mash-out does fix the fermentability by denaturing the beta amylase. While a-amylase can create fermentable sugars, it is not very good at doing that and the fermentability increase during mash-out is quite low. The benefits of the mash-out are increased protein coagulation which increased the size of the flocks and the lowering of the wort viscosity. Both help the run-off speed which is especially important in fly sparging.
If your sacc rest didn't convert all the starches, you may see an improvement of the efficiency when doing a mash-out. This is because the a-amylase becomes more active at the higher temp and is able to convert some more starches more quickly. But most of that efficiency gain will be unfermentable dextrins so you should not rely on a mash out for good efficiency. Just today I saw a jump from 90% to 95% conversion efficiency through the mash-out. After lautering this translated into a 3-4% efficiency boost.
ajf, I'm surprised to read that your efficiency dropped with a mash-out. Was that for the same recipe?
Kai
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11-27-2008, 12:37 AM
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#14
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Cleveland
Posts: 2,788
Liked 4 Times on 4 Posts
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I often mashout when batch sparging just to add the extra water to the mash to make both drainings of the MLT equal in volume. I figure if I am adding the extra water at the end of the sac rest I may as well mashout.
Craig
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11-27-2008, 02:05 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Long Island
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaiser
ajf, I'm surprised to read that your efficiency dropped with a mash-out. Was that for the same recipe?
Kai
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I always used to fly sparge, and my efficiency (with mash out and no stupid mistakes) always came out at 84 - 86% The first two batch sparges I tried, I used a mash out, and got efficiencies in the mid 70's. Then I dropped the mash out and increased the sparge water volume and temperature. Efficiency increased by about 5%
Was this because of the mash out or because I had a bit more experience with batch sparging? I don't know. That's why I posted "my efficiency seemed to drop a bit with the mash out"
Yes, all the batch sparge attempts had identical grain bills.
-a.
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11-27-2008, 09:04 AM
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#16
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Fallston, MD
Posts: 2,020
Liked 9 Times on 8 Posts Likes Given: 5
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If you're batch sparging you don't have to add additional water (in addition to your batch sparges) to mash out...just heat your second sparge water such that it will bring the grain bed to 168. It'll probably depend on your system. With mine, water around 195 will hit 168 for me.
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11-29-2008, 07:34 PM
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#17
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Eugene OR
Posts: 3,468
Liked 234 Times on 180 Posts Likes Given: 149
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plumber
So when batch sparging it does not seem to make a difference? I guess I can understand for fly sparg so the grain bed is 165-170 at the begining of the sparg.
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It seems to make a very small improvement in efficiency for me, due to reducing the viscosity of the wort. Although usually a "mashout" is used to denature enzymes and stop conversion prior to lautering. In batch sparging that really isn't needed. In fly sparging, it can be useful.
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11-29-2008, 09:39 PM
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#18
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Who rated my beer?
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Chandler, Arizona
Posts: 2,584
Liked 60 Times on 59 Posts Likes Given: 10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireBrewer
If you're batch sparging you don't have to add additional water (in addition to your batch sparges) to mash out...just heat your second sparge water such that it will bring the grain bed to 168. It'll probably depend on your system. With mine, water around 195 will hit 168 for me.
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What temp. are the mash runnings if you don't do a mash out for batch sparging? I would think they are < 168F during the time you batch sparge. Why is that not a concern?
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11-29-2008, 11:32 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Long Island
Posts: 4,506
Liked 72 Times on 66 Posts Likes Given: 28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soperbrew
What temp. are the mash runnings if you don't do a mash out for batch sparging? I would think they are < 168F during the time you batch sparge. Why is that not a concern?
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With a 5g MLT and a grain bill of about 8 lbs, I found that 2 infusions of 3g at 185 degrees, the first infusion raised the mash temp to about 164, and the second infusion raised it to about 168. With a 10g MLT, a slightly larger grain bill and the same sparge water temp. left the temp. way short.
The optimum sparge water temp. depends on the grain temperature, the amount of grain, the thermal mass of the MLT, the temperature of the MLT, the free space in the MLT, and the amount of heat lost while stirring, as well as the volume and temp of the sparge water.
-a.
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11-29-2008, 11:50 PM
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#20
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Vendor and Brewer
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Location: Piscataway, NJ
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My first runnings are exactly whatever the mash temp was ~152ish. My first sparge infusion at 185 gets me into the low 160's and the second infusion of about 180F gets me to 168ish.
Well, that's how it was before I got a direct fired mash tun. Now I just crank up the burner at the end of the mash and stop heating at 165F. THEN I run off and sparge with 170F.
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