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Old 09-07-2012, 01:17 AM   #11
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and i dont want to be consistent with a low efficiency, i want to raise my efficiency to an average level or above and then be consistent

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Old 09-07-2012, 01:46 AM   #12
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I also started brewing this year and my numbers were always coming up on the low end. I tweaked my home built crusher to .035 gap and have been hitting the 80s on preboil. I've always read about doughing in to make sure I had no clumps but before I adjusted the crush gap I had no problem with it. Now I have to pour in the crushed grain gently and stir very well because it wants to dough up on me. I can also tell that the water and grain mix looks a lot thicker now. For my screen on the bottom Of my mash tun i just use the stainless flex line

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Old 09-07-2012, 01:53 AM   #13
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That's how I do it, a nice slow gentle pour whole I stir. And then a good stir till my temp is correct.

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Old 09-07-2012, 01:57 AM   #14
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Have you tried batch sparging? I batch sparge rather than fly sparging, so I don't have experience to speak from, but my I would think by fly sparging with just a braid laid out straight you will get some channeling, leaving quite a lot of your grains minimally rinsed by sparge water.

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Old 09-07-2012, 02:03 AM   #15
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I have not tried, I did some research before my first AG batch and the general consensus was that fly sparging was more efficient. But I shall look into and research batch sparging and try that on my next batch. Thanks for the tip

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Old 09-07-2012, 02:37 AM   #16
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I

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Old 09-07-2012, 02:48 AM   #17
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I could be going about this all wrong"but my beer taste great" I usually add my water and grain, stir, stir again later. Then after an hour drain most of the wort off and put it on the burner and at the same time put the next batch of now 168 degree water in the mash tun give it a good stir,wait ten minutes drain it off and into the wort that is heating up. My thought is if I converted my starches to sugar then the next water going into the mash tun is just mixing in real good to absorb the sugar content.
This works for me but hey I could be doing this all wrong. I've never seen any channeling going on but I'm sure there would have to be a specially during the end of the run.

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Old 09-07-2012, 03:04 AM   #18
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So, just to clarify. I start the 60 minute mash once I finish mixing in the grain, but befire I finess the temp down ti precisely what j want. Then I start my sparge as soon as I hit 60 minutes. Should I wait until I hit my desired temp to start and start sparging befire the 60 minute mark so that I finish sparging at 60? Just trying to rule out all problems

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Old 09-07-2012, 03:26 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fnord View Post
Have you tried batch sparging? I batch sparge rather than fly sparging, so I don't have experience to speak from, but my I would think by fly sparging with just a braid laid out straight you will get some channeling, leaving quite a lot of your grains minimally rinsed by sparge water.
+1

Lowly BIABer here, so my expertise in this field is, well, not exactly expertise, but as far as I'm aware if you don't have a really good false bottom/manifold set up making sure everything drains easily, channeling can quickly turn any increase in efficiency from fly sparging into toilet efficiency as you're only effectively sparging a small portion of your grain bed.

I'd try a couple of rounds doing a batch sparge, and see if that makes a difference.
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Old 09-07-2012, 03:42 AM   #20
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Read through Braukaiser's threads on efficiency. You need to calculate your conversion efficiency, that will tell you how the mash is performing. From there you can look at other parts of your process.

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