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Old 02-23-2012, 06:41 PM   #11
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It sounds like you are doing traditional brewing with a separate mash tun and brew kettle. For traditional AG brewing, practically all of the grain husks should be cracked, but practically all of the grain husks should still be intact, i.e., still held together, and practically no uncracked grains. Check out this pic:

http://www.homebrewjunkie.com/2008/0...look-like.html

If you do BIAB, you can crush alot finer without adverse effects, because there is no possibility of a stuck sparge.

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Old 02-23-2012, 07:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopherM
It sounds like you are doing traditional brewing with a separate mash tun and brew kettle.
yes this is how my setup is

thank you for the link. my grain did look similar to the image.

so let me throw this question out there. what temp should my sparge water have been? and should I have not let my mashtun run dry?
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:28 PM   #13
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so let me throw this question out there. what temp should my sparge water have been? and should I have not let my mashtun run dry?
You're just trying to get the grain bed over 168 or so to denature the enzymes. The bigger purpose of sparging is to rinse the sugars out of the grain bed. I'd still like to see your recipe.
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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:05 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by tre9er

You're just trying to get the grain bed over 168 or so to denature the enzymes. The bigger purpose of sparging is to rinse the sugars out of the grain bed. I'd still like to see your recipe.
I posted a few posts up
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:24 PM   #15
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HOME BREW RECIPE:
Title: Waldo Lake Amber

Brew Method: All Grain
Style Name: American Amber Ale
Boil Time: 60 min
Batch Size: 5.5 gallons
Boil Size: 6.25 gallons
Efficiency: 70%

STATS:
Original Gravity: 1.066
Final Gravity: 1.017
ABV (standard): 6.53%
IBU (tinseth): 49.64
SRM (morey): 12.95

FERMENTABLES:
7.75 lb - Pale 2-Row (54.39%)
4 lb - Munich Dark (28.07%)
2 lb - CaraRed (14.04%)
0.5 lb - Melanoidin (3.51%)

HOPS:
1 oz - Cascade (AA 7) for 60 min, Type: Pellet, Use: First Wort
0.75 oz - Magnum (AA 15) for 60 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil
1 oz - Centennial (AA 7.8) for 0 min, Type: Pellet, Use: Boil

MASH STEPS:
1) Sparge, Temp: 153 F, Time: 60 min, Amount: 18.75 qt
2) Temp: 170 F, Time: 10 min, mashout

YEAST:
Wyeast - Denny's Favorite 50 1450
Starter: Yes
Form: Liquid
Attenuation (avg): 75%
Flocculation: Low
Optimum Temperature: 60 F - 70 F

WATER PROFILE:
Profile Name: Poland Sping
At 77% efficiency I come up with 1.067 using mostly the exact parameters above.
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Originally Posted by davekippen View Post
Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:41 PM   #16
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At 77% efficiency I come up with 1.067 using mostly the exact parameters above.
hmm wonder why the software i use came up with 70% efficiency...

so what efficiency do you hit when you calculate in my OG of 1.054??

I am still about 10 points lower on the hydrometer then i should be that i do know
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Old 02-24-2012, 01:20 AM   #17
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Did you measure your mash pH? Is it in the right range?
How about testing for residual starch? I always do a quick iodine test on a sample of wort from the mash tun at the 45 50 and 60 minute mark. If there are any signs of residual starch I keep mashing. Sometimes I have to take it to 80 minutes.
Lowering your mash temperature to 150 may help the amylase conversion and increase your efficiency.
Also perhaps you are not sparging long enough?

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Old 02-24-2012, 02:57 AM   #18
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just promise not to laugh

I feel like I am over thinking it. so I attempted to mashout and raise my mashtun temp to 170 but only got it to 168. I didn't calculate how much water I dumped in to reach 168 I just dumped in till I hit it. I stirred a bit and closed it up for 10mins.

I then drained off about 2qts and added it back to the mash. I then proceeded to start draining the mashtun. so as I am draining I am also adding water to top off and stay an inch or 2 above the grain bed. now this is the part where I get confused, I don't know what temp water to be adding to the mash as I am draining, in this case it was 180ish, and exactly how much to add to achieve my 6.25gal boil volume.

so I stopped adding sparge water after a gallon or two. that being said my mashtun drained empty and I was a gallon short of my boil volume. so I dumped in about 2 more gals and it ran off into my pot to boil and once I hit my 6.25gal boil volume I turned the spigot off and started my boil.

I did take a preboil og and it was 1.046
Sounds to me like your process requires too much added water to reach mashout that you are not left with enough sparge water...you are also attempting a semi fly sparge by trickling water through the grain bed which may not be rinsing the grain very well due to channeling. I would try skipping the mashout and try and reserve 50% of your total wort volume for a separate sparge. Check out these two simple batch sparge procedures below, neither do a mashout, simply put, mash with half your water and do one separate sparge with the other half...bobbys method actually calls for two batch sparges but this may only gain you a couple points.
http://hbd.org/cascade/dennybrew/
http://www.suebob.com/brew/Bobby_Mallgrainprimer.pdf
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Old 02-24-2012, 03:12 AM   #19
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I agree. I'd vorlauf and drain, batch, stirring before each vorlauf. No need to mash out. Just make sure sparge water raises grain bed sufficiently

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Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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Old 02-24-2012, 03:24 AM   #20
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I think pH is definitely worth considering here. It sounds like your sparge technique is a hybrid fly sparge and that should be able to get you up to 70% at least. Also you might want to check that your thermometer is calibrated correctly, you could be way off your temps and that would cause efficiency to drop. Also how long had you had your grain before you brewed? Pre-crushed grain should be used ASAP. I recommend calibrating your thermometer and picking up some pH test strips before you scrap your sparge technique, mine was very similar to yours when I started out.

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