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Old 02-12-2011, 11:10 PM   #1
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Default complex calculation!!!HELP!!!

Okay so here goes my question:

I was discussing on another thread about pulling some of the first runnings off of a batch of Scotch Ale and carmelizing it in order to provide some diacetyl-like flavors. (For the lead up to this conclusion see other post)

I got to thinking and this makes a lot of sense but then thought about what kind of havoc this would wreak on my gravity calculations.

I have decided to take about 1.5 gallons of first runnings and boil that down to about 1/2 gallon. That ought to provide plenty of caramellish goodness to a ten gallon batch (I think).

This beer is for a competition so the details have to be nailed down pretty well.

My question then is this. How would I calculate the gravity points that the decoction would add to the batch and how could best arrive at the f.g. that will keep me true to the style standards.

And one more: Would'nt that caramelized stuff darken the color up a bunch? Could I modify the recipe in any kind of way to adjust for it?

I am beersmith savy so that may make it easier but i dont quite know how to plug it all in.

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Old 02-12-2011, 11:17 PM   #2
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I have no idea what you are talking about. Relax and have a home brew.

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Old 02-12-2011, 11:21 PM   #3
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this may actually take several...thanks

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Old 02-12-2011, 11:22 PM   #4
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What type of scotch ale? If it is a 80/-, 90/-, or wee heavy it already is pretty dam dark anyway. So I would not worry about it.

As far as the gravity of the batch I would not worry about it. I am no expert but if you boil down 1 1/2 gal of the first runnings you are removing h20, but all the fermentables are still there. So your brew should have the same amount of fermentables. Now if you post your recipe, the collective will be able to give you advice on if it is enough for what ever size batch you are doing.

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Old 02-12-2011, 11:31 PM   #5
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I use secondaries. :p
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowhere View Post
As far as the gravity of the batch I would not worry about it. I am no expert but if you boil down 1 1/2 gal of the first runnings you are removing h20, but all the fermentables are still there. So your brew should have the same amount of fermentables.
Exactly. Making a reduction of wort into a syrup does not remove any sugar from it. It's all still there, just concentrated.

I do a reduction for my own scottish ale recipe, and I can tell you that it isn't going to give a you a diacetyl flavor. Diacetyl tastes like the fake butter they put on popcorn at the movie theater. YOu are going to get strong caramel malt flavors from it and not butter flavors.
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Old 02-12-2011, 11:49 PM   #6
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But in reducing down the extract wont some of the sugars actually be converted to dextrins which arent fermentable?

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Old 02-12-2011, 11:51 PM   #7
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I'll post the recipe shortly and see whay all yall think. Its actually a Wee Heavy.

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Old 02-12-2011, 11:53 PM   #8
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I use secondaries. :p
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Ah! You were talking about FG and not OG. My bad.

Yes, your FG will be higher than if you didn't do the reduction.

How much higher? No idea.

FG numbers are affected by a LOT of things. I don't even bother checking my FG on any beer that I make.

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Old 02-13-2011, 12:13 AM   #9
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Here t'is

10 gallons Wee Heavyy Scotch Ale
20# brittish 2-row
1.25# Cararoma
.75# Dextrin
.50# Honey Malt
.25# Peat malt
.25 # Roasted Barley
.25# Chocolate malt
3.5 OZ. Kent goldings 60 min
.75 OZ. Kent goldings 20 min
.50 Wilamette 5 min
2 vials ringwood Ale W1187

Mash at 153-155 for 90 min
batch sparge
O.G. of 1.076-1.080
ferment at 65 for a week and then transfer to secondary
crash temp at 1.018 and then age for 90 days

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Old 02-13-2011, 02:26 AM   #10
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It might be a little low in grains for a OG of 1.075-80 for 10 gal but it all depends on your efficiency of your system. I used close to 14lbs of malt for my 6 gal batch, and I hit a OG of 1.073. No matter what, I would let it sit in the primary for longer. I left mine for 3 weeks as it was obvious active fermentation was still going on. Right now mine has been in the secondary for 2 weeks and I am getting ready to bottle it this week. I believe Scotch ales take their time to ferment so I try not to rush them. Once again, it all depends on your system. Mine is a little cool right now as it is the winter and it depends on your yeast. I used White Labs Edinburgh Scottish ale yeast trying to stay on style. I don’t think I would use the Ringwood Ale yeast for a wee-heavy. If you want to use Wyeast, why not Wyeast 1728 Scottish Ale yeast? I usually use Burtons Ale yeast for just about everything as I can get it free from my local brew pub, but I bought specific yeast for my 80/- just to get the style I am looking for.

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