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Old 06-08-2012, 02:12 PM   #11
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The easiest thing to do is take a gravity reading at the start of the boil. If you're OG is going to be low, add some DME at the beginning of the boil and top off with tap water at the end of the boil. If you're worried about infection from tap water you can boil separately, but I don't. The boil only removes water, not sugars, so you can deal with the SG at the start and the volume at the end. I have a DME makeup calculation on my brew sheet that I use for that purpose.



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Old 06-08-2012, 02:45 PM   #12
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If you simply got too much boil off (i.e you hit all your target preboil volume and SG), then you want to just add sanitized water at top off. Adding additional sparge water is not necessary (and some would say is not advised due to pH, DMS, gravity, etc issues).

If you missed your target preboil volume or SG, and are concerned about getting all your numbers as close as possible, I would suggest a few things that can really help (if you don’t already have them, and don’t mind spending a couple more bucks):

1. Sightglass or some other method of measuring volume in your BK. This could be as simple as a long handled spool calibrated with marks at ½ gallon levels

2. Beersmith or similar brewing software – will really help you hit all of your numbers. You can adjust the boil off rate, time, volumes, in order to get an estimate of your final OG. That way you can adjust on the fly (add more water during boil, turn up burner to boil off faster, add DME) in order to hit your targets.



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Old 06-08-2012, 04:36 PM   #13
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I'm now also wondering if I collect extra sparge water to put aside until after the boil and I don't boil that extra sparge water for an hour, but use it to top off in my fermenter if I will get DMS in my brew?

Based on the above with my future batches I'm leaning towards topping off with a little spring water if my gravity is high enough.
I never boiled by top-off water, as our water is very good here and there isn't any chloramine or chlorine. If you normally treat your water for chlorine or chloramine, you'll want to treat your top off water also.

You won't get DMS from topping up with water.
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Old 06-08-2012, 05:01 PM   #14
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Just start with more wort to begin with. If you can't fit it into the two pots from the beginning, slowly integrate it into the boil as you lose volume. Too much and you'll kill the boil, but a cup or so ever couple minutes is fine.

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Old 06-08-2012, 07:49 PM   #15
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Just start with more wort to begin with. If you can't fit it into the two pots from the beginning, slowly integrate it into the boil as you lose volume. Too much and you'll kill the boil, but a cup or so ever couple minutes is fine.
Before I started doing a split-boil, I used to add in wort towards the end of the boil. Actually, I did this once and then I got paranoid about not boiling the wort for long enough. Anyways, is killing the boil a bad thing?
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:33 PM   #16
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It's just that you're manipulating your hop utilization in an unpredictable way when the boil is knocked down. I'd rather ease the extra wort in between the final 20-15 minutes.



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