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Old 11-04-2009, 11:16 AM   #1
BOBTHEukBREWER
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Default Chill Haze

As I get this problem, I have been reading up about it. It seems I should
1) put dry grain in mash tun and fill from bottom
2) not worry if some "bits" come out with mash liquor
3) not return any runnings to mash tun
4) not over sparge the mashed grains
5) avoid oxidysing the pre boil mash liquor (ie minimise splashing during transfer)
6) have a strong rolling boil of at least 60 minutes
7) mash out for 20 minutes at 77 deg C
8) cool down to 20 deg c as quickly as possible after boil
9) do not agitate / aerate liquor during this chilling
10) use some darker grains and add them during mash out

At present I carelessly pour the wort into the boiler, aerating it, I don't mash out at all, and after boil I vigorously agitate my cooling coil in the liquor to increase cooling rate. I shall use the 10 principles above in my next brew. Please tell me what you think about the 10 principles above, and have I missed any? thanks.

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Old 11-04-2009, 12:08 PM   #2
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My first impression is that there is no need to aerate your wort prior to boil. In fact (depending on your views of Santa Claus and the aerodynamics of his sleigh) this may result in undesirable off-flavors.

I would make adjustments to your process incrementally, rather than doing all of your steps at once. In order, I would:

- make sure you get rapid cooling
- be sure to get a boil... how "hard" a boil you get, in my opinion, and for how long depends largely on the grains and adjuncts you've used, but this is as much for flavor as clarity
- if you use lots of grain adjuncts, try a cereal mash, and beyond that, try a protein rest
- give your beer a good aging in secondary, or in the bottle, preferrably at a cold temperature

Pounds Sterling to Doughnuts, you'll find a greatly improved clarity from one or all of these steps, without having to worry about your vorlauf.

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Old 11-04-2009, 03:06 PM   #3
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thanks, but note I am NOT trying to aerate wort prior to boil, point 5 is AVOID aerating, I shall implement them all because I see improvement possibility, and then I shall look at water - which I do not modify, I boil tap water 30 minutes and cool to 72 deg f and add pale malt grain.

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Old 11-04-2009, 10:05 PM   #4
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IMO, these helped my chill haze issues the most:

11) Add Irish Moss to boil @ 30min
12) Use Finings (gelatin or polyclar) about a week before bottling or kegging

...just sayin'

- M

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Old 11-04-2009, 10:11 PM   #5
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chill haze is caused by an improper cold break. you have to drop the temp of your wart as fast as possible. i use an immersion wort chiller and put the brew pot on top of a block of dry ice in a small tub of regular ice.

then once the wart is below 80F i aerate.

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Old 11-04-2009, 10:50 PM   #6
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#2 should read worry if grain bit get into your boiler. you vorlauf to make sure your wort runs clear before draining. clear means no husks or bits getting transfered.

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Old 11-04-2009, 10:54 PM   #7
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1) B.S.
2) Worrying is a negative emotion, and never cures anything
3) B.S.
4) True, but shouldn't affect chill haze
5) True, but shouldn't affect chill haze
6) Yes
7) B.S.
8) Yes
9) True, but shouldn't affect chill haze
10) B.S.
11) Don't chill below 13C

-a.

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Old 11-04-2009, 11:06 PM   #8
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I think that is a long list of BS... Sometimes I dont even chill my wort, I pour grain into hot water to mash in... some of those things I cannot imagine have anything to do with precipitating out protiens... What are the explainations for those items? Or is it just because someone said so... I mean, what are the mechanics behind them?

There are times I dont even CHILL my wort. Takes about 24 hours, want to know what happens to my beer? This. Rapid cooling doesnt seem to be necessary huh?

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Old 11-05-2009, 02:44 AM   #9
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Sorry pol but the complete lack of condensation suggest that the beer is not cold enough to exhibit any chill haze. It doesn't look all that cold outside there.

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Old 11-05-2009, 02:48 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Conroe View Post
Sorry pol but the complete lack of condensation suggest that the beer is not cold enough to exhibit any chill haze. It doesn't look all that cold outside there.
Well, you are wrong, it was 38F.

It helps when trying to get a photo of a clear beer, to wipe away the condensation, helps the photos.

I can pull beers all day long that look like that, just need a towel.
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