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12-04-2012, 05:24 PM
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#1
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Location: Montreal, Quebec
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Can't get a vigourous boil with my 2.5 gallons BIAB setup
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I brewed my second BIAB beer 2 days ago and I still can't get my wort to boil vigorously at all.
This, in addition to my efficiency problem, leads to my OG to be way below. I was supposed to hit 1.058 but I hit 1.050. (I took a reading after the mash and it was supposed to hit 1.046 while I hit 1.042, so I know my efficiency was low as well.)
Should I simply boil for 90 minutes instead of 60 or should I try to find a way to to try to heat it more?
I tried to boil my first batch with my induction cooker and my second on the stove but they both failed.
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12-04-2012, 05:33 PM
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#2
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Frau Administrator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seb
I
Should I simply boil for 90 minutes instead of 60 or should I try to find a way to to try to heat it more?
I tried to boil my first batch with my induction cooker and my second on the stove but they both failed.
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You need a rolling boil. It doesn't have to be so vigorous that the pot shakes, but it must be a rolling boil. That does several things- coagulates proteins after precipitation, gives proper hops utilization, promotes stabilization, provides maillard reactions, provides dissipation of SMM (DMS precursors), and so on.
A simmer, even for 90 minutes, isn't the same as a 60 minute boil.
You could try making a smaller batch, so that you can get a boil. Or buy a burner, or build a heatstick, so that you can get a rolling boil.
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12-04-2012, 05:35 PM
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#3
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A longer boil will get your OG up as long as the volume is still fine. Otherwise you may consider adding some extra light DME. With boil issues you volume is probably high as well so longer may fix it.
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12-04-2012, 05:54 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yooper
You need a rolling boil. It doesn't have to be so vigorous that the pot shakes, but it must be a rolling boil. That does several things- coagulates proteins after precipitation, gives proper hops utilization, promotes stabilization, provides maillard reactions, provides dissipation of SMM (DMS precursors), and so on.
A simmer, even for 90 minutes, isn't the same as a 60 minute boil.
You could try making a smaller batch, so that you can get a boil. Or buy a burner, or build a heatstick, so that you can get a rolling boil.
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Damn, I guess I'd have to go with a heatstick. Not sure how the thing would work with a induction cooker running.
Would a single 110V stick boil the wort enough without the need to use the induction cooker or the stove?
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12-04-2012, 07:26 PM
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#5
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I would try the heat stick while on the stove. If you plug the heat stick into the same outlet as the induction cooker, you will pull way too much power and trip a fuse. The stove is on a separate 220v fuse so the heat stick will pull power from a separate breaker.
Can you have your pot straddle 2 burners on your stove? Sometimes that works if the pot is big enough. I am able to get 6 gallons to a boil ( not a hard boil, but still a decent boil) across 2 burners on my stove, but it is gas.
Also, I don't imagine a 1500 watt heat stick will boil the water all on its own, though I have never used a heat stick before.
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12-04-2012, 07:55 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D_Nyholm
I would try the heat stick while on the stove. If you plug the heat stick into the same outlet as the induction cooker, you will pull way too much power and trip a fuse. The stove is on a separate 220v fuse so the heat stick will pull power from a separate breaker.
Can you have your pot straddle 2 burners on your stove? Sometimes that works if the pot is big enough. I am able to get 6 gallons to a boil ( not a hard boil, but still a decent boil) across 2 burners on my stove, but it is gas.
Also, I don't imagine a 1500 watt heat stick will boil the water all on its own, though I have never used a heat stick before.
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We tried to put the pot on two burners, but the boil was even weaker. It worked best over only 1. I guess a heatstick inside the kettle while boiling over the stove would be the best thing.
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12-04-2012, 09:43 PM
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#7
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I've never done a BIAB but plan to in the future and from what I have read here is you need a pretty fine grain crush to get good efficiency for a BIAB. Maybe if you explain your whole process the experts here can help troubleshoot?
What kind of induction plate do you have? I'm getting a Burton 1800w induction plate and plan on brewing 2.5gl batches as well. I see that some insulate their kettles with that foil water heater insulation to help the boil.
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12-04-2012, 10:02 PM
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#8
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Personally, I would go with a gas burner. If you're in an apartment, this may be a problem.
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12-05-2012, 02:55 PM
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#9
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Location: Montreal, Quebec
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wobdee
I've never done a BIAB but plan to in the future and from what I have read here is you need a pretty fine grain crush to get good efficiency for a BIAB. Maybe if you explain your whole process the experts here can help troubleshoot?
What kind of induction plate do you have? I'm getting a Burton 1800w induction plate and plan on brewing 2.5gl batches as well. I see that some insulate their kettles with that foil water heater insulation to help the boil.
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Yeah next brew I'll ask my LHBS to crush the grain finer (is this even a word?). I got around 33% efficiency with my first brew but I didn't use a proper bag. Now with my 2nd I got 58% efficiency, which is a lot better but i was aiming for 65-70%.
I bought the Burton 1800w cooker as well. I like it, but it doesn't bring the wort to a rolling boil and it's kinda tricky to keep the temperature at the right mashing temp.
A burner for me is out of question.
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12-05-2012, 06:58 PM
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#10
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I use a 1500w heat stick with a ceramic stove burner and I get a rolling boil for my 5.5-gallon batches. Just make sure the heat stick element is completely immersed.
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