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Old 05-13-2011, 10:53 PM   #1
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Default Can you do an all grain with 1 kettle?

All the set-ups I've seen use 3.

Anyone have an example?

Gracias!


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Old 05-13-2011, 11:00 PM   #2
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Yes. Beer In A Bag (or BIAB). Search for BIAB and you'll find tons of good info. There's even a sticky at the top of the all grain section.
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:02 PM   #3
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Yep, I saw a great write up with pictures on BIAB this morning, and was just looking for it to link for you. Couldn't find it though.

Found it:http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/biab-brewing-pics-233289/
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:04 PM   #4
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I use one kettle, one [smaller] pot and a mash tun that's a converted cooler for my setup. You need the kettle to be large enough to do the full boil. The second pot just needs to be large enough to heat the sparge water. The cooler needs to be sized properly for your batches (figure your largest grain bill, then add some room for safety)...

Kettle: 32qt aluminum stock pot with 1/2" SS 3-piece ball valve.
Pot: 20 quart SS (scratch 'n dent discounted) to heat the sparge water.
Mash tun 1: 70qt Coleman Xtreme (green) with 12" straight bazooka screen and 1/2" brass ball valve.
Mash tun 2: 40qt RubberMaid round [beverage] cooler with T bazooka screen and 1/2" brass ball valve.

This hardware lets me make any 5 gallon batch I want. I also have a 60 quart aluminum kettle (brass 1/2" ball valve there) to use for 10 gallon batches.

IMO, the three pot method means you need to apply heat, or really insulate, the mash kettle. With the cooler mash tun, you eliminate that need. You can do BIAB with two pots, or one pot one kettle, if you want. There are people that do it in just one pot/kettle too.

I do love having the ball valve on the kettle (which is what turns it from a pot to a kettle). It makes draining into the fermenter so much easier. Once you've done it that way, you will probably never even consider using a siphon again to transfer the wort.
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:09 PM   #5
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Of course you can do AG in one kettle and you don't have do BIAB either. Most homebrewers have a simple setup that is nothing more that a turkey fryer with ONE kettle, a cooler for a mash tun, and maybe a bucket. Very simple.

Look at these pics from our area from Natl homebrew day...you don't see many multiple kettle setups here do you? Some have them but they aren't mandatory.







Heck we just did a 25 gallon brew for a buddy's wedding using only a cooler, turkey fryer burner and a 30 gallon kettle.
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:12 PM   #6
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I don't have a ball valve, nor did we have one on the 30 gallon pot, once we cooled the wort we use autosphins to move our beers. For the 25 gallon we use 30 feet of hose and autosiphoned from the driveway through a basement window and into a conical.
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:19 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Revvy View Post
I don't have a ball valve, nor did we have one on the 30 gallon pot, once we cooled the wort we use autosphins to move our beers. For the 25 gallon we use 30 feet of hose and autosiphoned from the driveway through a basement window and into a conical.
Sounds like a lot more work than what I go through... I did the autosiphon for my first few full boils... Once I fitted the valve to the kettle, that went out the window (well, I still use it to rack to the bottling bucket)...

For reference, I can drain the 5 gallon kettle into primary in under two minutes (more like 60-90 seconds)... Just one more item, IMO, that makes brew day easier on the brewer. Just like using a wort chiller instead of cold water baths.
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:24 PM   #8
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Sure you can....heat the strike water in your brew kettle.....mash in and start heating the full volume of sparge water in your brew kettle....collect your first runnings in a clean bucket and do your sparge ( you can either single or double batch sparge) keep collecting your runnings ( after vorlouf of course) in the clean bucket. once you are done, transfer the wort back into your boil kettle and do your boil. easy as pie.. to be honest I almost prefer this to my keggle and outdoor burner and hot liqour tank.
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:28 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OHIOSTEVE View Post
Sure you can....heat the strike water in your brew kettle.....mash in and start heating the full volume of sparge water in your brew kettle....collect your first runnings in a clean bucket and do your sparge ( you can either single or double batch sparge) keep collecting your runnings ( after vorlouf of course) in the clean bucket. once you are done, transfer the wort back into your boil kettle and do your boil. easy as pie.. to be honest I almost prefer this to my keggle and outdoor burner and hot liqour tank.
Yup, steve wrote a great summation of the process that most of us do.

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Old 05-14-2011, 03:03 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OHIOSTEVE View Post
Sure you can....heat the strike water in your brew kettle.....mash in and start heating the full volume of sparge water in your brew kettle....collect your first runnings in a clean bucket and do your sparge ( you can either single or double batch sparge) keep collecting your runnings ( after vorlouf of course) in the clean bucket. once you are done, transfer the wort back into your boil kettle and do your boil. easy as pie.. to be honest I almost prefer this to my keggle and outdoor burner and hot liqour tank.
That's exactly what I did with my first and only AG batch I have done. I have a false bottom fitted to my kettle. Heat my strike water in the kettle, add the grains, mash, then use a couple kitchen pans to heat my sparge water. I vorlauf then fly sparge the entire batch at once. I keep the flame low to no flame during the mash and stir occasionally to keep even heat and accurate temp readings on my thermometer. After sparging to a bucket, I remove the false bottom, clean out the grains and transfer the wort back to the kettle for boiling.

The one thing I ran into that I am going to remedy is scorching on the bottom of the kettle under the false bottom. What I am going to do is get a March pump and recirculate the wort during heating and mashing at a slow rate to keep even heat and circulation of the mash. I think this will keep spikes and drops in temperatures while mashing.


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