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Hebby5 · 07-17-2011, 11:04 AM

I posted a question about round or rectangular coolers. Thanks for all the responses. I think I'll be going with rectangular (48 or 62 qt.) based on cost. Need to start compiling my BOM and go to the hardware store.

After all the reading and video watching on making a Mash Tun, I see that some folks use a stainless steel braid or a build a manifold out of PVC or Copper with slits as the filter/strain device in the bottom.

I was going to go the SS braid route but wanted to understand if there was something I was missing with the manifold option.

Thoughts?

As always, I appreciate the help!

Chris

**Paul07293** · 07-17-2011, 11:20 AM

People are using both with great success. I went with a manifold because there is no chance it will collapse, but I use a round 10 gal cooler. From what I've seen, if you have the rectangular cooler with the channel that drains to the outlet, the braid works very well.

Irishpenguin13 · 07-17-2011, 11:22 AM

I use the braid. Its worked through a whole bunch of batches with no problems. Some people have issues with em, but I never have. The manifold is more time and money, but youre never going to have to worry about it collapsing and whatnot. A manifold is probably better for a rectangular cooler though, and braid for a round one.

**wilserbrewer** · 07-17-2011, 11:44 AM

Braid and batch sparge IMO. If you are a "heavy duty" type guy, go for the water heater supply, those things are beastly. Just be sure to get an actual stainless braid, some of the supply lines at the big box stores are polymer or plastic jacket that looks similar.

bthorn9435 · 07-17-2011, 01:09 PM

Coleman Extreme 52qt has been working awesome for me. I do 5 gallon batches.
Four all-grainbatches and not one stuck sparge using braided
hose. I highly recommend it.

corncob · 07-17-2011, 01:10 PM

I get all my grain from Brewmaster's Warehouse, and they use a pretty fine crush (I get 82% efficiency batch sparging). I got a stuck sparge every time I mashed using a purchased SS braid. PLUS I had to runoff very slowly or I would get a seriously stuck sparge. Then I made a manifold when I switched to mashing in a keggle. Now I can run off at lightning speed, never get a stuck sparge, and the wort still clears after about a half gallon vorlauf. That change alone took 45 minutes off my brewday.

There's one data point for ya.

waddsworth · 07-17-2011, 01:18 PM

I first used a stainless braid loop in a round cooler and batch sparged. Then I built basically the same MLT for a friend, but decided to try a manifold on his. Doing side-by-side sparges showed the manifold to have better efficiency.

**BrewerinBR** · 07-17-2011, 01:19 PM

I use a copper manifold in a stainless steel stock pot, drilled a hole in the stock and a gate valve, a little soldering and done. Why? because that is what I had in the my work shop. I had all of the stuff left over from re-plumbing projects. Simply bought the stock pot on amazon for 60 bucks... I like the manifold because I did not solder that I can take itt apart and clean it easily.

**PurpleJeepXJ** · 07-17-2011, 01:45 PM

I would do a manifold. Most of what is sold a SS is not or only maybe coated. A braid will collapse under the weight of grain and then all you have is a screen that is the size of your valve coupling opening inside the MLT. Do a manifold and you will be greatfull that you spent the extra time and money

Beezy · 07-17-2011, 03:04 PM

I have a braid right now. No chance of collapse. I used a piece of my old racking tube and put big notches in it and then pulled the braid over top. It's easier to take on and off like this too.