Boil That Bag Full of Grain. I Did. Mutliple Times.

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fuddle
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I don't do true BIAB. I kept the mash thick, about 1.25 qt/lb. Know your pH. I didn't ruin my beer. I added cold water to bring it down to 168f and then moved to my sparge pot. Now that I have a pH meter and appropriate means of controlling pH I may even do a boiling sparge and see how that turns out.
 
So who's gonna be the first to mention tannins?
I did this method several times. How is it different from boiling for decoction other than I boiled 100% of my mash?

1.25qt/lb is a thick mash?
Yeah. At the time I couldn't accurately measure my pH so I kept it thick to make sure it would stay low enough to not leach tannins. If you are sure of your pH there is no reason not to boil the full water amount if you do traditional BIAB.
 
Thank you for sharing....
No problem. I wanted to get a few of these under my belt before I put it up here and have mentioned it in a couple of other threads now because the topic came up. I figured I'd try it on a mild recipe I did first just because I didn't have a lot sunk into ingredients. I next did an amber. It wasn't killer but it wasn't the boil that was the problem. It is settling down nicely and getting drinkable now but I'd change the recipe, not the method. Then I went to a stout. The roast is a little more pronounced than I'd like but it is a 6.7% oatmeal so having something to slow me down while drinking it isn't a bad thing. :D
 
I see how this could work, but I dont get why you would want to do it.

Why do a decoction on the whole grain bill? Why heat it up like that, only to cool it back down with cold water and sparge with, I'm assuming, 170° sparge water?
 
I see how this could work, but I dont get why you would want to do it.

Why do a decoction on the whole grain bill? Why heat it up like that, only to cool it back down with cold water and sparge with, I'm assuming, 170° sparge water?
Experimentation really. The thing sits on my stove burner so to mash out I would just take it up to 170. Boiling for 20 minutes wasn't a big deal. It takes very little cold water to bring it back down. Again, now that I can measure and control pH I will probably try going from boiling in the brew kettle to boiling the sparge also. If you can't taste the difference or don't think it is worth the trouble, not a big deal. I'm just throwing this out since I've done it and others may want to experiment with it also. Mine is not the most refined of palates so I depend on others to give me feed back on the beer.
 
why bring it to a boil only to cool back down with cold water?

seems like extra time/steps that aren't needed

mash out isn't really necessary aside from long fly sparging if you want to stop enzymatic activity
 
why bring it to a boil only to cool back down with cold water?

seems like extra time/steps that aren't needed

mash out isn't really necessary aside from long fly sparging if you want to stop enzymatic activity
I brought it down to normal sparge temperature to dump in my 'sparge' kettle. I started doing this before I had my pH meter and a reliable way of knowing what the sparge pH would be and I didn't want to risk tannin extraction at that stage by having the temp too high since I didn't know the pH.
 
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