BIAB, why mashout?
 

If I'm understanding it's purpose correctly I don't see the need for one with BIAB. Any arguments? For the record I'm using a keggle and no sparge.

You can skip it if you are happy with your efficiency and have no problems hitting your target gravity. If not, a mashout is a good tool to improve efficiency and help you hit your gravity numbers.

Haven't done biab yet, but I read that a mash out will help "liquify" the grains so that you will get more wort draining from the bag without squeezing, but would love to hear an expert chime in.

I also would like to hear the theory behind the effeciency increases proposed by mashing out. I will also copy the OP to the brew science forum

Makes simple sense. Ever notice how it takes longer to wash the soap off your hands with cold water than it does with hot water?


Rev.

I have to confess that I'm quite skeptical of any claim that pins higher efficiency on a mash-out. I'm sure it happens, but to me that suggests that conversion hadn't completed and that the mash-out is acting like a crutch. I certainly wouldn't want my grains liquified (:D) and temperatures effect on solubility isn't relevant here. I see no reason to mash out with BIAB, particularly no sparge versions.

Wouldn't the higher temp create a thicker less ABV beer though? Not sure how that doesn't actually hurt efficiency. I'm using a custom bag that fits my keggle and use a good bit of water, my absorption is pretty low.

My understanding is that it makes the grain bed more liquid which allows the wort and sugars to make it into your brew kettle vs. staying stuck to the grain when you lift them from the kettle. I haven't done any scientific experiments to prove any theories either way about this ... mainly because doing a mashout is so simple that I've always just done them.

Are you talking about fermentability from different mash temps? Sure, that's true, but a mash out doesn't (or shouldn't) affect that.

All of the sugars should already be solubilized by the end of 60 minutes. It wouldn't stick to the grain, unless you are suggesting that cold husk absorbs more water than warm husk does. If you're water's not penetrating the grain husk properly then a mash-out might help by providing ramped-up activity at the end, but in reality that's the sign of a bad crush.

I don't really BIAB, but I do alternate consistently between a 170ºF sparge and a 60ºF sparge with absolutely zero difference in my efficiency.