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Antler · 01-24-2013, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johns

Oh yea hops. I forgot about them. Well the recipie calls for a first wort hop, and then hop additions at 15,10,5, and 1 minutes. So maybe I could first wort hop the first batch and add the other hop additions in the second half of the batch. I think it will be alright.

I want to blend these two together for one 5 gallon batch. I really dont want to experment too much, since this it the first time makeing this recipie.

Ok. Why not still do it in two separate brew days, like the pros do it. Brew your first 2.5g batch, cool, pitch yeast, etc. a day or two later brew the other 2.5g batch and transfer right into the fermenter with the first? If you don't plan to make a yeast starter this method will also be more forgiving on the yeast, they will have time to reproduce before you transfer the second batch in, greatly reducing the chance of off favours due to under pitching.

ishredthecello · 01-24-2013, 03:46 PM

Very cool...might have to try this

**FlyDoctor** · 01-24-2013, 03:49 PM

I brew in my garage that is in the upper 20's in MN. My vessel is a keggle. I wrap it with some reflectix and a lid and you'd be surprised how well it holds temps. I do usually need to fire up once or twice in a 60 min mash, but needed to do that in the summer as well.

johns · 01-24-2013, 04:10 PM

Antler, thats a great idea, kinda like a really huge starter. And I always rehydrate the yeast, because it adds to increased viability. Ya gotta give the best chance to the yeasties to survive. My next move will be to harvist yeast because I am finding I only use several types of yeast, so why not save them to pitch later. I think the idea is to get the yeast hungery before bubbling starts.

LateraLex · 01-24-2013, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by christpuncher123

Why all the guess work, use a strike water calculator, I use one of the thousands that are available and hit my target within a degree every time!

I feel like such an idiot right now. From a quick glance, it looks like I'm not using enough water. I am really hellbent on doing 10 gallon batches in my 11 gallon pot, so I have to make some compromises, but I need to try to maximize my space available. Next time...

ChrisL_ · 01-27-2013, 11:45 PM

First off a big thanks to all those who answer questions here and share their experience. I am a total home brew noob. I have yet to brew a drop of beer (but have drank my share of them :-). ). A good friend shared his version of the punkin ale (recipe from Reno_envy) and ever since I have been reading day and night about home brew and have decided to give BIAB a go. My plan is to do 2.5 gallon batches and I am looking at my turkey fryer options.

I live in Canada where our winters can get rather frosty. It is currently -4C/24f and 0c/32f in my garage and I am concerned about maintaining mash temps. (I will get refletix to insulate). So here is my question. Given my small batch size, will a larger pot with more airspace at the top drop temp faster then a full (smaller)pot? If so, a significant amount? My guess is that it will but hope someone with more experience can confirm. If correct I will like try to get a smaller pot

Thanks

**msa8967** · 01-27-2013, 11:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisL_

First off a big thanks to all those who answer questions here and share their experience. I am a total home brew noob. I have yet to brew a drop of beer (but have drank my share of them :-). ). A good friend shared his version of the punkin ale (recipe from Reno_envy) and ever since I have been reading day and night about home brew and have decided to give BIAB a go. My plan is to do 2.5 gallon batches and I am looking at my turkey fryer options.

I live in Canada where our winters can get rather frosty. It is currently -4C/24f and 0c/32f in my garage and I am concerned about maintaining mash temps. (I will get refletix to insulate). So here is my question. Given my small batch size, will a larger pot with more airspace at the top drop temp faster then a full (smaller)pot? If so, a significant amount? My guess is that it will but hope someone with more experience can confirm. If correct I will like try to get a smaller pot

Thanks

The rate of cooling and the rate of boil off will depend on the exposed surface area of the wort more than the headspace above the beer. Thus, if you can limit the area exposed it will be easier to keep the temp from dropping. However, if you overshoot the mash temp then be prepared to add some very cold water or some ice so having some headspace is a good thing.

ChrisL_ · 01-28-2013, 01:31 AM

Thanks for the reply Mike,

I have read about the circumference of the pot (and the relative amount of the exposed surface of the wort) affecting the boil off rate. I plan to do a test boil once I have my burner/pot. But when it comes to the mash, the lid will be on to seal the pot but I was thinking for example a half full pot would have a lower thermal mass versus a pot that is say 90% full. Given the thermal mass of the mash would be higher, I would think the portion of the pot that is only air would cool quicker, resulting in faster overall temperature drops. I am not sure if this is correct, or even if it is, that is significant enough?
I think I have done enough reading I am confident to start my first batch, with the exception of being worried about holding the mash temp in my rather chilly garage.

Chris

MMJfan · 01-28-2013, 01:20 PM

Well, I think I've finally dialed in my BIAB. My first few BIAB sessions, I did a mashout and then a sparge and I was hitting between 75-80% efficiency on each batch. I then thought, since I was doing a sparge that I could just skip the mash-out. Well, my last two batches I was only getting around 65% efficiency. So, over the weekend I decided to do a mash-out and a sparge once again. Well, I hit 85%!

So, I'm going to stick with keeping a mash-out as a part of my brewing session!

mirogster · 01-28-2013, 01:52 PM

MMJfan what's your sparge methode (and temp ~170 ?)