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Old 01-09-2013, 03:23 AM   #21
TheWulf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bueschen View Post
Am I the only one who doesn't worry about aeration at this point? I mean after my mash and sparge are done I put my wort into my boiling kettle and it rolls around for 60+ minutes. Am I wrong in thinking that boiling forces most of the oxygen out of my wort anyway? Then, when the boil is done and I have chilled the wort and pitched the yeast I try my best to get as much aeration as possible to give the yeast a nice environment to do their thing. Am I completely off base here???
This is exactly what I am trying to figure out. If it's a non-issue, then great, so it shall be. But I defer to the AG experts on this, as I am not one.
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:24 AM   #22
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I use 1 pot and 1 ale Pail to do my 5gallon batches.
Heat water to strike temp.
Dough in grains
Mash for an hour
Drain into ale pail
Add sparge water.
Stir vigorously and let settle 10min.
Drain into ale pail also
Clean spent grains from pot
Dump ale pail into pot
Boil
Chill
Back into rinsed and sanitized ale pail
Pitch
Done

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Old 01-09-2013, 04:16 AM   #23
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I use a 44 qrt boil kettle, a 50 qrt igloo marine cooler with a cpvc manifold for my MLT, and a 20 qrt kettle for my sparge water. This set up has worked great so far and I've gotten very good efficiency with batch sparging.

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Old 01-09-2013, 04:19 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TyTanium
Food-grade plastic bucket is fine for collecting runoff. Don't worry about aeration.
This is exactly what I do and I've never had a problem...
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Old 01-10-2013, 04:10 PM   #25
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After more digging, it seems that HSA is not something to lose sleep over.

Here is a good post if anyone else comes across this thread and is looking for answers: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/hot-side-aeration-oxidization-161364/#post1863209

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Old 01-11-2013, 01:38 PM   #26
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It seems we all do the same thing. I have a 7 gallon brew pot. Heat my strike in the pot and mash in a 10gal Home Depot Rubbermade. Drain into my ale pale. Heat the sparge in my brew pot, Sparge and drain in the same pail. Poor back into my brew pot for boil. I do have a brand new 15 gallon brew kettle but have not used it yet.

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Old 01-11-2013, 02:02 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eyebrau View Post
Would like to hear more responses on this. My setup is identical. I've done two batches with my cooler mash tun. My kettle does not have a spigot, so I've struggled with moving hot liquor to the mash tun as well as moving preheated sparge water. What I've been doing is using a bottling bucket, hose, and aerator nozzle to manually sparge, and then collecting the wort in my kettle. Pouring the hot water into both the cooler and bucket sucks.
For now, I am in the same boat. I use a pitcher to move most of the water, then when it gets low I just pick the pot up and dump the rest.

Using the pitcher probably costs me a few degrees with the strike and mash out water, but I just overshoot and correct downward with stirring and/or cold water.

Im about to build a new set up, but its hard to spend the 1000 bucks I'm planning on considering I can make great beer, its just not sexy and more importantly I want to minimize my lifting on brewday.
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Old 01-11-2013, 02:40 PM   #28
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I just lift and pour. It's not safe but the darn spigots for the kettles cost ~30$ if I remember right. I also use free pots that aren't exactly pretty or perfect.

I'd like to add a ball valve one of these days when I can justify spending more on brewing equipment....

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Old 01-11-2013, 02:50 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBL_Brewer View Post
If you collect wort in a bucket, use a bottling bucket. This way you can slap some tubing on the spigot and gravity drain the wort into your kettle to avoid excessive aeration.
Aeration doesn't matter, HSA is a myth. You're about to boil it all and drive out the air.

My setup is an 8gal pot on the stovetop, it has a thermometer and a ball valve. I drain that into a 10gal round cooler with a hose braid, then when I sparge it's right into the 10gal brew kettle. I used to use hoses for all these steps but now just let the liquids free fall into the mash tun/kettle.

One trick I learned is to put a smaller collection container under your mash tun spigot and leave it running for a good 20-30min. You'll often wind up with an extra half gallon of wort. You might have to tip it a bit but it can make a difference in your efficiency.

Before I got ball valves on my kettles I did the pouring method, but it kinda scared me a bit. I made it a priority to get a pot with a ball valve to use for heating water/boiling, and then later on wound up putting a weldless valve on another pot to simplify things a bit. It made me feel a lot safer... though it took me a while to make the investments, it's not exactly cheap.
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Old 01-11-2013, 02:57 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eyebrau View Post
Pouring the hot water into both the cooler and bucket sucks.
Get a 2 - 4 qt plastic pitcher to move sparge water...like bailing out a boat, rather than picking up and pouring....it is very easy...you can move 3-5 gallons of sparge water effortlessly in like 20 seconds.
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