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08-22-2012, 09:53 PM
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#21
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Broken Robot Brewing Co.
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Location: Someplace, Nebraska
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WTF man. The other day, I had my mash at 152*F, and my sparge water at 175*F. So, I added 1.5gal "mash out" water (sort of) to my mash tun, stirred, rested for 5 mins, then took a temp reading - only to find 147*F!
Okay, fine, whatever, I drained my first runnings (which should leave behind a 147*F grain bed, amirite?), and poured in the remaining 3.5 gal of 175*F water (I re-checked the temp to be sure!). Stirred, closed lid for 5m to let the grain settle, then checked my temp - My sparge was even lower! 145*F!
Sparging is not my friend. No sir.
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08-22-2012, 11:19 PM
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#22
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Read aloud: I'm a dumbass
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Location: Lincoln, NE
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Fact is, its not crucial. I use equal parts strike and sparge water for my brews. I do not add any sparge water prior to first runoff. I then add sparge water in one big addition, stir, vorlauf, and run off slowly. All this time my kettle is heating and FWH are in.
This is how Denny does it and that's good enough for me!
There are no "rests" after I add sparge water, either. Just stirring, then vorlauf.
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Den Faaborg Bryggeri
Quote:
Originally Posted by davekippen
Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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08-23-2012, 04:09 PM
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#23
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Eugene OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopRodGR
Denny, I just want to clarify what you are saying so I am sure I am understanding correctly. I understand the pH concept as it relates to decoction, though isn't the thickness of the decocted portion part of what keeps the pH low enough to nullify tannin extraction?
Building on that, assuming I treat my sparge water to keep the pH down (I use lactic acid currently), is there any reason to be concerned about topping that magic 170 degree number that gets thrown around?
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I don't think the thickness of the decoction really matters. The pH of the whole mash is what counts.
As long as your pH is below 6, there should be no problem even using boiling water to sparge. At least, my own experience is that there is no problem.
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08-23-2012, 04:10 PM
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#24
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Eugene OR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HopRodGR
That's always been my understanding too. That's why I'm following up on this quote from him from post #13...
"The truth is that pH is what you need to worry about during the sparge, not water temp"
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Which means "I assume you've checked your pH and it's good, so water temp should not be an issue".
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08-23-2012, 04:12 PM
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#25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tre9er
Well, he means that if you dilute too much you can get tannins, yes...but by the same token he and Kai have proven that you can sparge with cooler water and that would eliminate all possibilities.
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Keep in mind that my experience is based on batch sparging, where you almost never see pH rise during the sparge. It could be totally different for fly sparging.
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08-23-2012, 04:16 PM
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#26
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Read aloud: I'm a dumbass
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Location: Lincoln, NE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Denny
Keep in mind that my experience is based on batch sparging, where you almost never see pH rise during the sparge. It could be totally different for fly sparging.
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Well, guys that mash pretty thick and sparge really thin with a lot of water...they're pretty diluted but still probably not as much as the tail-end of a fly-sparge.
__________________
_________________________________
Skal!
Den Faaborg Bryggeri
Quote:
Originally Posted by davekippen
Open log Fermenting and gas-can secondary?? I am planning my next brew right now!!
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