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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing > Am I doing this wrong
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Old 07-11-2013, 12:48 AM   #11
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I put coiled(around pencil) 16 gauge wire in my braid to prevent the braid from possibly collapsing.

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Old 07-11-2013, 12:59 AM   #12
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http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/chea...version-23008/

This is all you need to do.
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Old 07-11-2013, 01:12 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chawagi View Post
Hi, Guys.

Quality stainless braiding should hold up to the weight with out collapsing. If it collapses it is most likely that faux SS plastic crap.

I'm very much a noob, but it seems the problem with the lack of internal tubing and such a long braid will be the tendancy for the braid to flex downward rather than collapse. Since the braid is an open filtration system and not a sealed hose, only the length of the braid that is level to the valve inlet will be effective. I think this will result in less area to filter the wort and more possibility for a stuck sparge.

I'm not sure what cooper wire is, but if it holds the braid level with the valve, it should be okay in my inexperienced opinion.
True this. Just shorten your SS braid to about 12'' and you'll be golden. Never had my SS braid collapse, on my MT or BK. Only stuck sparge I have ever had was when I used about a half pound of zest trying to cool from the boil kettle. But I guess that wouldn't make it a stuck SPARGE now would it....
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Old 07-11-2013, 06:13 AM   #14
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well i used my first braid with a copper coil in and it worked. of course how well i will know in 4 weeks, when this b*tch is bottled and ready

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Old 07-11-2013, 08:23 PM   #15
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That looks like it would be a PITA. Too long, too flexible, too wimpy. I used a 12 inch water heater supply line. It would go over the outside of you fittings. I can beat the s*#t out of it when stirring with no problems.

I think I used this one. http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-x-...1#.Udt1LfmW-So
That's the same one I used. Works awesome and doesn't require any reinforcement. It was a bit of bitch to slip the braid off the rubber hose inside though. I believe I used a 3/4" brass nut to cap it and married the other end to my existing 1/4" barb connector.
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:04 PM   #16
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I too tried that once and that was enough, I went to Depot and got pvc (the type that takes hot water) and built a manifold and drilled 1/16" hole all over it and have never had another problem.

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Old 07-11-2013, 10:33 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by jpmg View Post
That's the same one I used. Works awesome and doesn't require any reinforcement. It was a bit of bitch to slip the braid off the rubber hose inside though. I believe I used a 3/4" brass nut to cap it and married the other end to my existing 1/4" barb connector.
Think of it as the old Chinese fingercuffs trick. Push each end of the braid in towrds the center. The braid will expand and you can pull out the tubing.
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Old 07-12-2013, 12:45 AM   #18
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Think of it as the old Chinese fingercuffs trick. Push each end of the braid in towrds the center. The braid will expand and you can pull out the tubing.
That's what I did. The rubber inside was just so 'sticky' that it was difficult to do properly. Not terribly difficult, but required more effort than the narrower toilet supply lines.
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