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Old 07-09-2013, 01:06 AM   #1
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So i have my tun all set. But I can't get it to flow water. Is the braid to long? At first if I tilted it it would go then stop. This stinks.

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Old 07-09-2013, 01:20 AM   #2
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The bulkhead inlet needs to be under water. The braid is "open" and not a hose. The inlet needs to be submerged for water to flow.

To reduce the bottom deadspace, install an airtight assembly from the bulkhead inlet to the lower lying braid (or manifold), such as a bend pipe, tubing, or a hose.

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Old 07-09-2013, 02:16 AM   #3
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Fill it up with more water, put a hose/tube on your hose barb to create a siphon....She will only drain as high as the ball valve without a hose/tube on the end of your ball valve barb (the hose is needed to creat the siphon effect)

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Old 07-09-2013, 02:27 AM   #4
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ah, thought it was an easy fix.ill see tomorrow

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Old 07-09-2013, 02:28 AM   #5
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That looks like it would be a PITA. Too long, too flexible, too wimpy. I used a 12 inch water heater supply line. It would go over the outside of you fittings. I can beat the s*#t out of it when stirring with no problems.

I think I used this one. http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-x-...1#.Udt1LfmW-So

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Old 07-09-2013, 02:32 AM   #6
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You do have holes cut in your tubing right? If not, that is your problem IMO. I have a brass square head plug (Watts #737) in the end of my tubing with a SS clamp to keep anything out.

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Old 07-09-2013, 01:17 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlindFaith View Post
You do have holes cut in your tubing right? If not, that is your problem IMO. I have a brass square head plug (Watts #737) in the end of my tubing with a SS clamp to keep anything out.
its stainless steel braid. holes already there. i know its ugly but it was a test run.
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Old 07-10-2013, 05:03 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bxtzd3 View Post
its stainless steel braid. holes already there. i know its ugly but it was a test run.
It is just a braid with no tubing inside? Wouldn't that collapse under the weight of the grist anyhow?

I buy my SS braid in 12" sections, cut the fittings off, push the braid off of the tubing, cut staggered holes into a 12" piece of 3/8" tubing, and then run that through the stainless braid and I have never had any issues outside of one stuck sparge when my plug came out the back of the tubing.
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:51 PM   #9
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ok, i took my 50 qt cooler back and got a 70 with the outlet in the right spot. i also picked up a 18" braided hose 3/4" wide and cooper wire for bracing inside the hose. i think this will be better. yes/no?

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Old 07-10-2013, 04:59 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlindFaith View Post
It is just a braid with no tubing inside? Wouldn't that collapse under the weight of the grist anyhow?
Hi, Guys.

Quality stainless braiding should hold up to the weight with out collapsing. If it collapses it is most likely that faux SS plastic crap.

I'm very much a noob, but it seems the problem with the lack of internal tubing and such a long braid will be the tendancy for the braid to flex downward rather than collapse. Since the braid is an open filtration system and not a sealed hose, only the length of the braid that is level to the valve inlet will be effective. I think this will result in less area to filter the wort and more possibility for a stuck sparge.

I'm not sure what cooper wire is, but if it holds the braid level with the valve, it should be okay in my inexperienced opinion.
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