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Old 07-03-2014, 02:37 PM   #11
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I bottle so the additional hops have to go into the fermentation
I'm still not seeing the problem. You just dry hop a few days to a week before bottling.
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Old 07-03-2014, 02:43 PM   #12
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I've been a preacher for doing things as closely to a pro brewery as possible.
The problem with this logic is that pro brewers have a bottom line. For the most part, homebrewers do not. A very small, almost unnoticeable difference would not be worth it to a pro, but for me this is a hobby and I love to play.

My thought is that the interaction of hops with the brewing environment is different at every stage. Some of the variables are time, temperature, yeast, alcohol, sugar content . . . not to mention all the different hop varieties and malts. The endless combinations are what make this game so much fun.

Try it and let us know.
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Old 07-03-2014, 03:20 PM   #13
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AnOldUR - I agree with you entirely. Just because so far I haven't dry hopped doesn't mean I won't. Will ask the wife to make me a range of sizes of muslin bags so I can dry hop with up to 5 different hops at a time, or indeed at different times during fermentation.

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Old 07-03-2014, 03:27 PM   #14
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The problem with this logic is that pro brewers have a bottom line. For the most part, homebrewers do not. A very small, almost unnoticeable difference would not be worth it to a pro, but for me this is a hobby and I love to play.

My thought is that the interaction of hops with the brewing environment is different at every stage. Some of the variables are time, temperature, yeast, alcohol, sugar content . . . not to mention all the different hop varieties and malts. The endless combinations are what make this game so much fun.

Try it and let us know.
I agree that we're fortunate not to have cost as a huge influence on our process. When I give the advice to "do it like a pro brewery" I'm usually talking about things that relate to cleanliness of fermentation.

But I will say that my hoppy beers were never so aromatic (and especially hop-flavorful) as when I started doing a long whirlpool. I think it's an effective use of hops, retains a lot more flavor and aroma, and it sure is nice to simplify the boil rather than always having to run back to the kettle and toss something else in.
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Old 07-03-2014, 05:12 PM   #15
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can you describe what doing a long whirl pool means please ?

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Old 07-03-2014, 05:18 PM   #16
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can you describe what doing a long whirl pool means please ?
At 0minutes you turn off the flame, throw in a some hops (along with kettle finings), and let it sit hot for 30 minutes before chilling.

In my specific case, I have a whirlpool immersion chiller, so during this 30 minutes I'm recirculating the wort so that it's actually whirlpooling within the kettle. If I didn't have this capability, I'd give it a good stir when I added the hops, and then maybe one more time during the hopstand (which is the other name for this process of a long post-boil steep).

The idea is that the hot wort is still extracting some bitterness and helping to extract hop oils, but because it's not boiling then you're retaining more than a mid-boil addition. After all, if you add hops to your boil, and then smell hops in the air, that's hop oil that is no longer in your beer.

I have also done a 50 minute whirlpool, where I added more hops at the 25 minute mark. This did give a little extra intensity but I ultimately decided that my time was worth more, so I'd rather only do 30min and just add more hops.
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Old 07-03-2014, 06:29 PM   #17
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thanks mate - for my current brew I added hops at 15 - 10 - 5 and then let it stand 30 minutes because lunch was ready - I then coo;ed it via a plate chiller and pitched a hydrated safale 04 yeast - after 3 days 4 hours it is slowing down and clearing. Smells good.

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