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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing > All grain woes
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:30 PM   #21
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Wait! You can oxidize your beer during the mash? How would one go about causing oxidation during the mash and what can be done to prevent it?
I read/heard about this, but I don't get how you can oxidize a beer during the mash when everything tells you to aerate the wort or use an oxygen stone prior to pitching the yeast.
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:37 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by jtkratzer

I read/heard about this, but I don't get how you can oxidize a beer during the mash when everything tells you to aerate the wort or use an oxygen stone prior to pitching the yeast.
The idea behind hot side aeration it's that you can oxidize certain compounds while the mash is hot. Therefore, it's no longer just oxygen, but has been incorporated into larger molecules and won't be driven off in the boil.

aerating for the yeast happens at low temps, so the yeast consume it before it oxidizes anything.

Honestly, hsa is not something you need to worry much about. According to such folks as charlie bamforth, you str most likely introducing more staling potential at packaging than with any hsa. Don't unnecessarily splash hot wort just for fun or anything, but also don't stress over it.
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:43 PM   #23
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I read/heard about this, but I don't get how you can oxidize a beer during the mash when everything tells you to aerate the wort or use an oxygen stone prior to pitching the yeast.
Aeration of chilled wort prior to pitching is good.

Aeration of hot wort/mash (a.k.a. hot side aeration, or HSA) is bad.

Just how bad is a matter of debate. If you are careful not to create tannins during mashing/sparging, you don't care about refined malt flavors, and you don't plan to age or store the beer for very long, you probably don't have to worry too much about HSA.
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Old 05-28-2012, 10:23 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by corax

Aeration of chilled wort prior to pitching is good.

Aeration of hot wort/mash (a.k.a. hot side aeration, or HSA) is bad.

Just how bad is a matter of debate. If you are careful not to create tannins during mashing/sparging, you don't care about refined malt flavors, and you don't plan to age or store the beer for very long, you probably don't have to worry too much about HSA.
http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/475
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Old 05-29-2012, 04:14 PM   #25
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I'll listen to it when I get a chance, but does he actually contradict anything I said? To reiterate, I think you don't need to worry about HSA unless you (1) over-sparge and create tannins, (2) plan to store your beer a long time, or (3) are trying to get a very delicate malt flavor (like a classic Munich Helles or Maerzen).
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:09 PM   #26
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I'll listen to it when I get a chance, but does he actually contradict anything I said? To reiterate, I think you don't need to worry about HSA unless you (1) over-sparge and create tannins, (2) plan to store your beer a long time, or (3) are trying to get a very delicate malt flavor (like a classic Munich Helles or Maerzen).
That HSA is more or less a myth so long as you're not using an egg beater or something to whip up your mash into a frothy foam. I didn't listen to the entire 87 minute show yet either.
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Old 05-29-2012, 09:02 PM   #27
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Sorry to hear that your problem continues to haunt you. Before you make your next batch let me second the recommendation to check your thermometer. I like to two point calibrate my two brewing thermometers once a year (they never drift but it so just so easy so why not). I get some RO/DI water to a rolling boil (my elevation is 470' so I don't need to correct for that) and make sure both read 212°F. If not adjust them so they do. Of the two calibration points this is the more important one if your thermometer will be measuring water and mash temperatures.

While you do that, get a slurry of crushed ice and RO or RO/DI water going. Just enough RO/DI to cover the crushed ice. Place it in the back bottom of your refrigerator. While the ice is melting the temperature must be 32°F assuming there isn't a bunch of ions in the ice which is very likely true. Check that your thermometers read the temperature of this slurry as 32°F. This is an easy thing to do and then we can rule out temperature uncertainty during the mash.

Whenever I hear band aid taste defect I always think infection. Can you describe your cooling and transfer of the wort to the fermenter? Is this procedure different now as compared to when you were making extract batches which did not exhibit the off flavor? Next time you brew, sanitize a 20 fluid ounce soda bottle along side your carboy and transfer the first 20 oz. of cooled wort to this soda bottle and cap it then continue transferring the wort to your fermenter. Store the bottle of wort (no yeast added) at the same temperature as the fermenter and feel it daily in order to detect when the contents of the bottle become pressurized. The better your sanitation the longer it will take for the stray yeast or bacterial to start building a colony and pressurizing the head space. Anything longer than 3 days is good and 5 days is excellent. After 3 days in the fermenter your pitched yeast has basically eaten everything up and so the odd wild yeast or bacteria will not build a large enough population to harm your beer.

Finally an excellent source of several brewing salts is bulkreefsupply. This is pharaceutical grade CaCl2•2H20: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/...aquariums.html

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Old 05-29-2012, 11:48 PM   #28
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i use my ph strips when the grain is mixed witht he mash water. all types of beer create a different PH. Adjust the mash liquid is what I have heard on the brew radio.

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