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Old 09-12-2006, 08:52 PM   #11
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Maltodextrin is a body booster rather than an alcohol booster. It contributes unfermentable, tasteless sugars which give a thicker mouthfeel.

SNPA is definately all about the hops.

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Old 09-13-2006, 07:53 PM   #12
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Cool. Thanks for all the help everyone. I think this is the Recipe I'll go with. I might tweak it a little later on based on how everything turns out.

Grain
7# 75% 2-row
2# 20% Vienna
.5# 5% Crystal 20L (I'd like 10L but I don't think my LHBS has it)

Hops
1oz Cascade @ 60
1.5oz Cascade @ 30
1oz Cascade @ 1
.5oz Cascade @ Flame out

Yeast
Wyeast 1056 American Ale

I can still buy bulk 2-row and cascade and at least my LHBS has relatively cheap specialty grains by the pound. After recycling some yeast from the first batch I'm hoping to get the cost down around the $10 range per 5Gal.

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Old 09-13-2006, 08:42 PM   #13
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Very cool. I'm interested in how it turns out. Please post a picture of a nice beer glass full of it.

How do you intend to recycle the yeast?

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Old 09-13-2006, 09:27 PM   #14
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I plan on making a big starter from the smack pack and splitting it. I'm curious as to how the yeast will mutate after a few trips through this process.
Anybody have experience with this? How noticable is the change?
I also just washed some 3068 (?) Hefeweizen yeast from my primary. Will definitely use that again.

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Old 09-14-2006, 01:59 AM   #15
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I usually make a big starter and split it for two brews on successive days.
I then wash the yeast from both batches, and get enough to brew another 6 batches. I've never tried going to another generation, and never noticed any mutations. I did however once get an infection in a jar of washed yeast, and of course it was when I was down to my last jar. Is smelled most unpleasant when I iopened the jar to make the starter, so I used a Safale 04 that I had for emergencies.
I do find that the longer I store the washed yeast, the longer it takes to get started, but that's not surprising.

-a.

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Old 09-22-2006, 05:57 PM   #16
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I'm going to do the same and work on a House Ale. I've tweaked your recipe just a bit. I hope it turns out a clean crisp ale that SWMBO will like. Total cost at AHBS was $16.42 No room for bulk grains yet.

Grain/Extract/Sugar

8.00 lbs. Pale Malt(2-row)
2.00 lbs. Vienna Malt
0.50 lbs. Crystal 10L

Hops Pellets

Amount Name Boil Time
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
1.00 oz. Cascade 60 min.
0.50 oz. Cascade 30 min.
0.50 oz. Cascade 5 min.


Yeast: Danstar Nottingham

Gonna batch sparge it with my new 10 gallon Home Depot cooler. Thanks for a great idea. Brew weekend, here we come!

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Old 09-22-2006, 07:13 PM   #17
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Can I ask you how many gallons of water you will collect prior to the boil?

A recipe I wanna try is 3kg Pale and 250g crystal + hops, I.M & yeast.

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Old 09-22-2006, 07:18 PM   #18
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I figure between 6.5 to 7 and then boil down to 5.5

Promash says my preboil is 6.47, but I'll check how efficient my system is, or my level of skill at all grain that is.

I plan to primary in a buckt for a week, then rack to a carboy for several weeks at a bit cooler temps before crash cooling & kegging.

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Old 09-22-2006, 07:26 PM   #19
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6.47gal for a pre-boil volume seems a bit low for 10.5# of grain. What's your water/grain ratio set at for your mash?

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Old 09-22-2006, 07:33 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chairman Cheyco
6.47gal for a pre-boil volume seems a bit low for 10.5# of grain. What's your water/grain ratio set at for your mash?
Good question. I haven't gotten that far. I'm upgrading to my 10 gallon Home Depot cooler this weekend, so I was going to search for the old water calculator for Batch Sparging. I won't run out of room like I did on my brown with 13.5# of grain last brew.

Edit:

Just figured it out:

I'm going for 7 gallons preboil.

Mash in with 3.61 Gallons
I'll add 1.39 gallons to first run
Second batch with 3.5 gallons.

Neat little Excel spread sheet from Bay Area Mashers.
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Last edited by EdWort; 09-22-2006 at 07:45 PM.
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