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-   -   To all the batch spargers (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/all-batch-spargers-145436/)

Walker 11-06-2009 02:14 AM

To all the batch spargers
I do thick mashes with 1.0 to 1.2 qts/lb, and I batch sparge. I use an additional 2.0 to 2.2 qts/lb after the mash. Some of this post-mash water is in the form of a mash out (a small hot infusion at the end of the mash, before I run anything off). The rest of this post-mash water is used after the first runnings are in the kettle, and I do one dump of water into the tun, stir, and drain again.

The amount of mashout water is determined by the goal of wanting 50% of my total wort come from the first runnings and the other 50% from the second runnings.

There have been a couple of times where I felt I was over-sparging this way.

Now... I've been reading a lot on HBT lately about people doing thin mashes to keep proper pH and doing only a little sparging, and I've been thinking about making adjustments to my own process to follow along these lines.

What I was wondering was... has anyone ever done their mash and then, before draining ANYTHING to the kettle, just dumped all of their sparge water into the tun and just done a single large runoff to the kettle?

I'm pretty sure I can get all of my water into my 10gal cooler at one time, so I was thinking about trying this on a batch.

Edcculus 11-06-2009 02:24 AM

I don't see anything wrong with that. Of course with a single batch sparge, you might loose some lauter efficiency. No big deal as long as you hit your targets. It might be a good idea to use Kai's efficiency spreadsheet to see exactly what is going on.

Scimmia 11-06-2009 02:28 AM

It's called no sparge. There has been some discussion on it, but I'm not sure how you'd search for it.

Walker 11-06-2009 02:28 AM

I typically get about 74% efficiency, so dropping a little would be fine by me.

Walker 11-06-2009 02:30 AM


Originally Posted by Scimmia (Post 1659146)
It's called no sparge. There has been some discussion on it, but I'm not sure how you'd search for it.

I saw one thread on no-sparge, but the person had a pump and was just constantly recirculating the water in the tun. I'm not set-up to do that, but perhaps that person was not doing typical "no-sparge" brewing??

Scimmia 11-06-2009 02:35 AM

maybe it's different if you can recirc, but I've always heard no sparge exactly as you described it.

Google comes up with a few results:

Malticulous 11-06-2009 03:17 AM

I doubt recirculating will help with no sparge. Kia has a chart that will show the gravity of the first run off with complete conversion. Recirculation or not you can't do much better than that and without much recirculation I get close.

I mash 1.4 qt:lb, mashout and double batch sparge. With my stock barley crusher and a 10-12 lb grain bill I usually get 85% or higher efficiency.

Walker 11-06-2009 03:32 AM

Do you ever get tannins using your process? The pH of the wort on your third running seems like it would be getting far off course, no?

Malticulous 11-06-2009 03:41 AM

I did before I started adjusting pH, but back than I was a fly sparger. I've done over 90% batch sparging without being able to taste any tannins.

HotbreakHotel 11-06-2009 05:51 AM

I usually do a double batch sparge because I have a 5 gallon round cooler, and that's the only way I can get all the water through (I don't really make small beers).

I have checked pH with a pH meter a few times through all the sparges. I had been targeting 5.6 pH. In my experience the mash will be to the low side -- 5.3 - 5.4 with a thickish mash, and the first and second sparge will be at 5.6-5.7.

One time I did a third sparge because I was pushing the limits of my mash tun and the pH went out of range, over 6. If I could do it over I would have just poured the extra water into the kettle.

Another thing to note is I always use the same water profile for my sparge as I do my mash.

In short, in my experience it's been fine pH-wise to do 2 sparges but not 3.

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