Spike Brewing 12.5 Conical Fermenter Giveaway - Enter Now!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > All Grain & Partial Mash Brewing > Is it against the rules?

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
Old 04-23-2006, 04:46 PM   #11
alemonkey
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 860
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by davidkrau
Can I pick your brain. I never heard of using a toilet intake as a filter. How does it work, what kind do you use and how do you tie it in to the cooler?
As long as it's not a toilet exit
__________________
alemonkey is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-24-2006, 03:47 AM   #12
Twabe
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Tri-Cities, WA
Posts: 25
Default

It is just the stainless mesh that covers the water inlet for the toilet tank. Is this what you call a bazooka tube? It is about a foot long, which is probably too long.

__________________
Twabe is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-24-2006, 03:49 AM   #13
Twabe
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Tri-Cities, WA
Posts: 25
Default

Thank you for the kind words. There is so much info on the internet that going to AG was a natural step for me. I like to cook too, so working from scratch is my favorite way of doing things.

__________________
Twabe is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-24-2006, 03:54 AM   #14
Twabe
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Tri-Cities, WA
Posts: 25
Default

Richbrewer, thank you for the advice. I was shooting for 7 gallons or so. In my previous 4 AG brews, all which turned out pretty good, for some reason, I had 12 lbs of two row plus a couple of lbs of flavoring malts. The OG in most of them was 1.05 or so, but I was figuring that going heavy on the grains would make up for some of the perceived inefficiency of my batch sparging.

-t-

__________________
Twabe is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-24-2006, 04:06 AM   #15
Twabe
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Tri-Cities, WA
Posts: 25
Default

I really appreciate the welcome. I have a lot to learn, and I am very impressed with all the help and geniuine warmness of the site. Thanks!

-t-

__________________
Twabe is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-24-2006, 10:14 PM   #16
boo boo
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Hearts's Delight, Newfoundland
Posts: 4,171
Liked 30 Times on 26 Posts
Likes Given: 4

Default

I usually get more from my sparge than I'm willing to put in my kettle and as a result boil the extra on the stove with a little bittering hops added. As the wort level drops in my kettle I add from the pot on the stove to my kettle and boil away.
BTW way to go re the going AG, congrats.

__________________
boo boo is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-25-2006, 01:22 AM   #17
Lost
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 606
Liked 7 Times on 6 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Twabe
Richbrewer, thank you for the advice. I was shooting for 7 gallons or so. In my previous 4 AG brews, all which turned out pretty good, for some reason, I had 12 lbs of two row plus a couple of lbs of flavoring malts. The OG in most of them was 1.05 or so, but I was figuring that going heavy on the grains would make up for some of the perceived inefficiency of my batch sparging.

-t-
There's definitely something up with your setup if you're only hitting 1.05 with more than 12 lbs of grain. 12 lbs of two row alone should get you 1.061 OG in a 5.5 gallon batch if you're hitting 75% efficiency. My guess is you're getting 60% efficiency at best. Upping the grain bill is a poor patch for efficiency problems. You're experiencing low efficiency probably because of the design of your manifold (the tube) or your sparging practices or both.. IF this is in fact your problem then you are not effectively rinsing the sugar from the grains. Adding more grains will do little to fix things if you still are not going to efficiently rinse the sugar from them. Plus, you'll have to contend with your mash tun limitations.. and may have to go to a thicker mash ratio than you'd like. On top of all this, more grain means more sparge and thus a greater boil volume and a longer boil (more propane) to concentrate it down to the desired volume. For a 14lb grainbill you should have almost 8 gallons of sparge. Thus you also run into your kettle limitations.. you can of course just use a larger kettle (a keggle is great BTW) or add additional sparge as you boil but you are making more work for yourself. What you need to do is solve your efficiency issues - this is probably the cheapest and easiest solution to your problems.

Welcome to the community BTW, there are a lot of wise and helpful brewers around here.
__________________
Lost is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-25-2006, 04:27 AM   #18
Twabe
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Tri-Cities, WA
Posts: 25
Default

Thank you all for the tips.

Lost, I think you are exactly right on the efficiency of the sparging process. My output drains from the cooler quite quickly, garden hose like, even after recycling the first few quarts. I have added a few cups of rice hulls to try and slow things down, but I think I will have to modify my manifold (shorten), or put some sort of ball valve on to regulate the flow out.

All told, I had about 38 quarts boiling, and dumped out a gallon or two from the mash tun at the end that I couldn't fit in the kettle. It did seem a bit shameful.

__________________
Twabe is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-25-2006, 04:57 AM   #19
Mykel Obvious
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Huntsville, Alabama
Posts: 125
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Twabe
Thank you all for the tips.

Lost, I think you are exactly right on the efficiency of the sparging process. My output drains from the cooler quite quickly, garden hose like, even after recycling the first few quarts. I have added a few cups of rice hulls to try and slow things down, but I think I will have to modify my manifold (shorten), or put some sort of ball valve on to regulate the flow out.

All told, I had about 38 quarts boiling, and dumped out a gallon or two from the mash tun at the end that I couldn't fit in the kettle. It did seem a bit shameful.
yeah, you really need some way to slow that sucker down... a ball valve would be wonderful but even a pinch clamp on your hose could help a bit... it should take 45 min. to 1 hr to sparge with a continuous/fly sparge setup

Rice hulls won't slow down the flow, they just help make a filter bed (and are used to help prevent a stuck sparge with wheat/rye/corn etc)...

Until you get a ball valve you might want to look at batch sparging for a better effect with your system... most brewers report needing to add 1 -3 lbs. grain to reach their "normal" efficiencies when batch sparging vs. fly sparging
http://www.bayareamashers.org/content/maindocs/BatchSparging.htm
http://home.elp.rr.com/brewbeer/files/nbsparge.html (WARNING!!! MATH FOUND IN SECOND LINK!!! )

Also think about (if you have room in your fermenter for it) boiling the "left over" mash in a small pot on the stove with a small portion of your bittering hops, then just combine them in the fermenter... or, if you have a pressure cooker/canning setup, you could "can" it in mason jars and use it for starter wort to step up your yeast... (if you end up with extra wort again, take a gravity reading of what is left... just to see the SG of the remainder... if you are running it out fast, there may be only a little sugar in it anyway)

anyway, some things to think about

mikey
__________________
Mykel Obvious -
Head Bottle Washer What Is In Charge Of Caps for Old Coyote's Bad Mojo Biohazard Brewery

"I have a total irreverence for anything connected with society except that which makes the roads safer, the beer stronger, the food cheaper and the old men and old women warmer in the winter and happier in the summer."
Brendan Behan
Mykel Obvious is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-25-2006, 03:57 PM   #20
Brewpastor
Beer, not rocket science
HBT_LIFETIMESUPPORTER.png
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Brewpastor's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Corrales, New Mexico
Posts: 4,580
Liked 30 Times on 26 Posts

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chairman Cheyco
About the only problem I could see with adding wort late in the boil is that you may not get your hot break out of that portion, lending to cloudy beer. That would only really happen if you added it in the last few minutes before flame-out though. I'm sure your batch will be fine.

Welcome a'board!
I agree with this and add that if you get break with this second wort addition it will mess with your hops. So you will have to consider the effect (some reduction in bittering and so forth) and make adjustments in your recipe and process.

Personally I saw adjust your process so you simply avoid the need to add thie second wort.
__________________
Before I learned to brew I was poor, sober and lonely. Now I am just poor.
Brewpastor is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Rules TxBrew Debate Forum 1 11-17-2008 05:39 PM
Exchange Rules. olllllo Sampling and Critiquing and Beer Swapping 3 03-24-2008 04:25 PM