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Old 12-02-2009, 04:21 AM   #1
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Default Adjusting pH

I have been doing a lot of research lately and mash efficiency and water condition seem to be very closely related. I can do the tests to check PH but what is very one using to adjust PH. I need to lower mine.

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Old 12-02-2009, 05:52 AM   #2
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Really it depends on your water profile. If you have enough minerals in
your mash and want to lower pH, then adding Latic or some other acid
wil do it better than overloading the mash with more minerals.
If your water is lacking ca then gypsum could be added to increase calcium
and sulfate.
Anyway it is all here http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-3.html

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Old 12-02-2009, 04:09 PM   #3
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Thanks. That's more than I bargained for.

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Old 12-02-2009, 04:12 PM   #4
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Ive used calcium cloride in my mash and lactic acid in my sparge water to knock down high ph, but it really does depend on your water profile on what's best to use.

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Old 12-02-2009, 05:04 PM   #5
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or take the easy route: pH 5.2 added to the mash water.

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Old 12-02-2009, 05:07 PM   #6
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http://www.brewmasterswarehouse.com/product/0101891/five-star-52-ph-stabilizer-1-lb

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Old 12-02-2009, 05:29 PM   #7
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5.2 doesn't buffer at 5.2 (it's more a capping of the pH at 5.8), doesn't do anything against low mash pH and adds sodium along with it's phosphate.

Don't go there. pH strips, a water test (even the ones for aquariums) and brewing salts are a better investment.

Kai

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Old 12-02-2009, 05:55 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaiser View Post
5.2 doesn't buffer at 5.2 (it's more a capping of the pH at 5.8), doesn't do anything against low mash pH and adds sodium along with it's phosphate.
5.2 Buffer is a standard buffer solution - combination of monosodium phosphate (acid) and disodium phosphate (base). So, it does buffer in both directions.

OP, I agree with Kaiser. I recommend you get within the pH ballpark (e.g., Palmer's water spreadsheet) by adjusting your tap water with RO water and/or brewing salts.

However, I recommend you use 1 tsp (not 1 tbs) of 5.2 Buffer for a 5 gallon batch strictly as a safety net. The mineral content in tap water varies throughout the year and 5.2 Buffer is cheap insurance against any swings.
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Old 12-02-2009, 05:59 PM   #9
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Wow, more controversy. I just want it to be as easy as possible. I don't want to have to take chem 101 to balance my water. I've been brewing for a long time and make very good beer. After spending some time here I thought that I could make some improvements. But i don't want to spend allot of time messing with the water. I need to keep it simple. Don't want to take the fun out of it.
Thanks for your help.

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Old 12-02-2009, 06:01 PM   #10
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If you need to lower your pH, it's likely because you're brewing lighter beers right? Gypsum would work but only if you're also short on calcium and sulfate. Cutting with RO at a certain percentage would also work but before you do anything, you ought to get a water test done. If you're happy with your beer, you could just forget you ever heard of pH.

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