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Old 09-15-2009, 05:09 PM   #11
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The instructions say to add it to the mash. They say nothing about sparging.
I have never added it to the sparge.

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Old 09-15-2009, 05:10 PM   #12
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I like to sparge hot, so I add pH 5.2 to the water. Zero tannin problems and no off-flavors.

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Old 09-15-2009, 05:32 PM   #13
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Thanks for the comments/thoughts.

I'll probably just stick with the mash, as that's what the instructions say - and I'll start testing my sparge water pH and runnings and see where I'm at before I tblindly inker with sparge pH management

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Old 09-15-2009, 05:52 PM   #14
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Do you guys check the pH of your sparge water after adding 5.2? I'd imagine it has a different effect when being added to pure water. The water chemistry of the mash is very different than the water alone.

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Old 09-15-2009, 06:29 PM   #15
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Uhhh, I can only imagine that the pH when it's added to water is 5.2, since that's what the buffer is designed to do.

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Old 09-15-2009, 06:50 PM   #16
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Jeepers, your water pH is 9.3?

I'd say that if you have high pH water (maybe 7.5-8.0 or higher) and you're fly sparging, it's probably a good idea to treat your water with some acid to get the pH down in the 6-7 range.
Actually, as tested with a pH meter, it's 9.5!
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Old 09-15-2009, 08:19 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildwest450 View Post
The instructions say to add it to the mash. They say nothing about sparging.
I have never added it to the sparge.
The instructions on my tub of it don't say anything about the mash. They say to use a tbsp per 5 gallons of water used during the brew. No distinction of mash and sparge water indicated.
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Old 09-15-2009, 09:06 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil' Sparky View Post
Uhhh, I can only imagine that the pH when it's added to water is 5.2, since that's what the buffer is designed to do.
I don't think that is the case. From Palmer:
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In 1953, P. Kohlbach determined that 3.5 equivalents (Eq) of calcium reacts with malt phytin to release 1 equivalent of hydrogen ions which can "neutralize" 1 equivalent of water alkalinity.
If you have very hard water, I would guess you would need to add a lot of 5.2 to move the pH of just the water (with no malt) down to 5.2. Not sure if that would be a problem though since excess 5.2 precipitates out AFAIK. I believe that 5.2 is meant to get you the rest of the way to a proper mash pH AFTER the malt has already helped to lower your pH.
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Old 09-15-2009, 10:20 PM   #19
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The instructions on my tub of it don't say anything about the mash. They say to use a tbsp per 5 gallons of water used during the brew. No distinction of mash and sparge water indicated.
Read the fine print. It clearly states to put in the mash.

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Old 09-15-2009, 11:54 PM   #20
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If you are batch sparging then it won't make much of a difference either way.

If you are fly sparging then I think it would be a good idea to use it in the sparge water. In a fly sparge the water is in contact with the malt for a significant amount of time and in addition to a rinsing of the converted sugars et al is also somewhat of an extended mash, even though the temperature of the sparge water should also function as a mash out if you did not already do one before sparging. I would think an incorrect sparge pH could have some effect on any further extraction from the extended mash.

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