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Old 08-17-2012, 07:59 AM   #61
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I guess a lot of unfermentable happened after the 9 1/2h boil. I have dumped more beano and the wlp99 this morning but didn't check gravity.
Wish i wasn't working this week end to check the hardware store for it.
Thanks Matt.
Best of luck.

My approach to this whole thing is to eventually work my way up in strength, just for kicks. I've done a TON of beers in the 10-12% range, then this one where I was aiming for 15% but got closer to 16%. That was for my 15 year brewing anniversary. I figure sometime maybe in a year or so I'll aim a bit higher and gradually work my way upwards. I think it's good to do that way as you learn a lot about the super high gravity brewing process, what works, what doesn't for technique and recipe, etc etc etc and it can lead to a beer that is both strong and drinkable rather than just a very strong beer that tastes like crap.

Anyway, let us know how it works out.


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Old 08-17-2012, 05:36 PM   #62
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I have done the other method to built up a beer after you brew it by adding sugar. I have a dogfishead 120 ipa in the primary. I think that in the future with the set up I have this will be the way to go. I have done my share of strong beers myself. So far the strongest I bottle is at 13.3%. I aged it for 2 months in primary then another 2 months in the secondary with american oak. This is the second time I made it and it turned out even better the second time. That beer is a real jewel.

I thank you for taking the time to offer some advice.
Btw with the wlp 99 the beer is bubbling vigoursly at the moment. I will aerate it again tomorrow and add some more nutrient and possibly some beano.
I keep updating this thread. Even if the beer end up a failure I will have learned plenty in the process.


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Old 08-18-2012, 07:00 AM   #63
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With your system? Is it small?

It results in lower efficiency, but you could always do a Double Double. In case you haven't heard of it, you make your recipe, and divide it in half. Mash in as normal. Do your first runoff fast as you don't care if it's clear. Clean the mash tun and add your other half of grain, then add that wort back in for a second mash using wort instead of water.

My usual beers have an efficiency of ~74% or something. I did one Double Double almost a year ago and it was more like ~60%, but then I wasn't aiming as high as you did here. My result was 1.111 which is around what I was aiming for.

Anyway, it requires less mash tun space since you're dividing the mash in half.

If I were you, if the strongest you made before this was 13.3% or whatever, I'd aim for 16% or so, then 18 or 19% and so on. You learn at each step and figure out what techniques work. That's my 2 cents of nonsense, anyway.
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:08 AM   #64
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With your system? Is it small?

It results in lower efficiency, but you could always do a Double Double. In case you haven't heard of it, you make your recipe, and divide it in half. Mash in as normal. Do your first runoff fast as you don't care if it's clear. Clean the mash tun and add your other half of grain, then add that wort back in for a second mash using wort instead of water.
My system is on small side. I have a huge mash tun about 100l but my kettle is only about 33l. That is all i can have in my small apartment.

But I really like the idea of the double double. Will put it to practice soon.

Bear in mind that I only have brewed for a year and recently felt confident enough to experiment. Initially I made a lot of clones based on recipes found on this forum or somewhere else.
But lately I have been making my own recipes, the 13.3% was supposed to be a 11% but somehow it went higher. I'm so looking forward to this coming year as I will experiment as much as I can with procedure and ingredients.
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Old 08-18-2012, 08:51 PM   #65
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Why all the beano? It won't break down the unfermentables created during the long boil will it?
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Old 08-18-2012, 09:58 PM   #66
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That was the reasonning but the reality seems to be different.
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Old 08-19-2012, 05:57 AM   #67
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Only a year? I'd say not to rush. If you wanna make super high gravity beers, take your time and work your way up. You'll learn along the way. And, with brewing, patience is a good skill to learn. ;-)
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Old 08-19-2012, 06:48 AM   #68
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In the warmer months I have at all times seven buckets fermenting. That gives me a little room for experimentation while I enjoy the other delicious brew I made already. The reason I have so many is that patience isn't my forte even tough it has improved in the last year. But with such a yield I have always something new to taste and enjoy.

The beer is slowly going down in Gravity. I have added another kg of sugar and aerated more. The gravity is down to 1066. Way too high still but the wlp 99 is still working nicely. Time will tell how low it will go down.
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Old 08-22-2012, 10:14 AM   #69
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Checked the gravity again this morning. It is down to 1062. I doubt it will go much lower. I have now added 3 kg of sugar and I think that the gravity is only falling because of the alcohol formed by the sugar. So maybe if I add some more sugar I can dilute it some more but surely not to an level low enough, let's say around 1020-1025. At least the yeast is still working, but just not burning through the unfermentables. Really undecided what to do with it. The beer is very sweet Porto wine like. Barely a touch of Hops despite the 10.5 oz of high alpha hops I added during the final stage of the boil.
The ABV is currently at 15%.
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Old 08-22-2012, 12:53 PM   #70
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I wonder if you could mask the sweetness via dry hopping? I know you won't get any of the acids that add bitterness, but maybe the floral overtones from the hops could detract from the cloying sweetness of it? I guess with nearly 11oz of hops already added and boiled for several hours I don't know how keen you would be on spending more money on this project...


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