Newest Threads

**Reno_eNVy** · 07-28-2012, 04:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Akavango

This the recipe I got my inspiration from. It worked for him. Hey Home brewing is all about experimenting but I'm open to suggestions. If it does work then I'll have to try it again later but this time with all the wort at once in the fermenter.

http://www.byo.com/stories/techniques/article/indices/9-all-grain-brewing/51-21-alcohol-all-grain-beer

Oh, sorry if it seemed like I was being discouraging. I was pointing out some things you might have to think about in order to get a quality beer that is exactly what you're looking for.

Experimentation is awesome and most definitely my favorite part of brewing.

Phunhog · 07-28-2012, 05:40 AM

I would go with just a single base grain, like Maris Otter. The biggest obstacle obviously is going to be to get it to ferment out all the way. I would either step mash or mash really low for at least 90 minutes. Make sure you add some yeast nutrient...those poor yeasties are going to need all the help they can get. I don't think you can add to much O2 for this beer. It goes without saying that you will need a HUGE starter of fresh yeast and see how far that can take you. You will most likely have to pitch a secondary strain (distiller's yeast ?)to get it to finish. Good luck!!

**JollyIsTheRoger** · 07-28-2012, 05:49 AM

Here is an idea you might try that I saw. Start with you two gallons or so, but the stuff that you add later: boil it down more into a thin syrup(with carmalizing if you can). That was is kind of similar to adding sugar to raise the OG, but its still all grain. That way your original 2 gallon wort can be at a more reasonable gravity to start( say 1.12ish instead of 1.19). You willl get the benefits of starting with a lower gravity, the benefits of adding sugar during active fermentation, and still be all grain no extra sugar. Good luck, ijust keep an eye on the gravity as it ferments and stop adding sugar when it stops fermenting so you at least have some beer that is drinkable as opposed to 5 gallons of sickly sweet beer.

**Akavango** · 07-28-2012, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phunhog

I would go with just a single base grain, like Maris Otter. The biggest obstacle obviously is going to be to get it to ferment out all the way. I would either step mash or mash really low for at least 90 minutes. Make sure you add some yeast nutrient...those poor yeasties are going to need all the help they can get. I don't think you can add to much O2 for this beer. It goes without saying that you will need a HUGE starter of fresh yeast and see how far that can take you. You will most likely have to pitch a secondary strain (distiller's yeast ?)to get it to finish. Good luck!!

I'm all set on the recipe yet and may do a single grain. I can't do a step mash, i'm not set up for that. I will be adding some plenty of nutrients.

I'm already pitching two yeast the WLP 001 and the 099 which is specifically for very high gravity beers.

**Akavango** · 07-28-2012, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JollyIsTheRoger

Here is an idea you might try that I saw. Start with you two gallons or so, but the stuff that you add later: boil it down more into a thin syrup(with carmalizing if you can). That was is kind of similar to adding sugar to raise the OG, but its still all grain. That way your original 2 gallon wort can be at a more reasonable gravity to start( say 1.12ish instead of 1.19). You willl get the benefits of starting with a lower gravity, the benefits of adding sugar during active fermentation, and still be all grain no extra sugar. Good luck, ijust keep an eye on the gravity as it ferments and stop adding sugar when it stops fermenting so you at least have some beer that is drinkable as opposed to 5 gallons of sickly sweet beer.

Interesting idea. Have you tried it?

**Akavango** · 07-28-2012, 02:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dcp27

id mash even lower than 150 and probably over night unless you plan on adding beano like in the BYO article. i'd also ditch the carapils & crystal, with that high of OG it def won't need any added body (plus you won't want any added unfermentables)

Thanks for the advice, How low would you mash it at?

**Akavango** · 07-28-2012, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmiller5m

I would ferment with a brewers yeast until the gravity starts to flatten out. Then add some more fermentables with a distillers yeast to finish it off.

Wouldn't the WLP 099 be enough? Or would a distiller yeast be necessary? the Wlp 099 is supposedly good up to 25% ABV.

**JollyIsTheRoger** · 07-28-2012, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Akavango

Interesting idea. Have you tried it?

I haven't no, but I have seen it done for barleywines and Impy Stouts with good results. The issues would just be making sure you dont caramelize the sugars in your syrup and create unfermentables(same thing with your over extended boil). Keep it barely at a boil and only crank it up to a roaring boil near the end to drive off DMS and stuff like that.

As for the mash time, I don't think an overnight mash would be necessary, you could just do an hour like normal or bump it up if you are nervous, but it shouldnt need more time since its mostly base malt you have plenty of enzymes there to work for you.

**Bobby_M** · 07-28-2012, 10:13 PM

You should be brewing full 5 gallon low gravity beer as a starter to build up the yeast. Mash a 148F for two hours. I agree with ditching the cara malts altogether. The richness of the malt will be good enough and you'll be lucky to reach a final gravity that doesn't leave it tasting like malt syrup. The extra sugar in big recipes is to have it dry out a bit.

**Akavango** · 07-29-2012, 12:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JollyIsTheRoger

I haven't no, but I have seen it done for barleywines and Impy Stouts with good results. The issues would just be making sure you dont caramelize the sugars in your syrup and create unfermentables(same thing with your over extended boil). Keep it barely at a boil and only crank it up to a roaring boil near the end to drive off DMS and stuff like that.

As for the mash time, I don't think an overnight mash would be necessary, you could just do an hour like normal or bump it up if you are nervous, but it shouldnt need more time since its mostly base malt you have plenty of enzymes there to work for you.

I use an electric kettle without any power control so adjusting the boil is out of the question. My kettle is either on or off.

As for the mash I will bump it up to 90'