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01-24-2013, 12:30 PM
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#1
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What actually happens during bottle carbing?
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I know the general science behind it, yeast turns sugar into CO2 building up pressure and dissolving in the beer.
I'm wondering why this takes 2 weeks (leaving aside conditioning/aging)? It seems like 4oz of corn sugar should be fermented out within 24-48hrs.
Now what happens? As CO2 is created does it rise to the top, fill the head space and dissolve from the top down, or once there is some pressure does it absorb/dissolve as it's created? And what kind of pressure do we see in a bottle during this? 12PSI set in a keg seems to carbonate within a week.
So who knows the science?
Thanks
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01-24-2013, 12:34 PM
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#2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHdriver
I know the general science behind it, yeast turns sugar into CO2 building up pressure and dissolving in the beer.
I'm wondering why this takes 2 weeks (leaving aside conditioning/aging)? It seems like 4oz of corn sugar should be fermented out within 24-48hrs.
Now what happens? As CO2 is created does it rise to the top, fill the head space and dissolve from the top down, or once there is some pressure does it absorb/dissolve as it's created? And what kind of pressure do we see in a bottle during this? 12PSI set in a keg seems to carbonate within a week.
So who knows the science?
Thanks
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The yeast eat up the sugar fairly quickly. However, it takes a while for the pressure to fully push the CO2 into solution. Even if you force carbonate using a keg it takes two weeks for this to happen at 12psi. Additionally, you want to wait for the yeast to fully flocculate after they have done their work and cleaned up after themselves.
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Chad
"I am a firm believer in the people. If given the truth, they can be depended upon to meet any national crisis. The great point is to bring them the real facts, and beer."
-Abraham Lincoln
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01-24-2013, 12:38 PM
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#3
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^Pretty much covered it right there. It's not just carbonating, it's also "conditioning" which is when the small amount of yeast left in the bottle start breaking down their own waste byproducts and then settle out in a fine layer on the bottom leaving your beer fairly clear and smooth tasting. This process takes time!
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Next up: Caramel Amber Ale (Chinook)
Primary #1 + 2: Red Zombie IPA
Bottle Conditioning: Centennial Blonde Summer Ale, Shmuck's Belgian Dubbel, Dry Irish Stout
Drinking: Honeybee American Wheat Ale
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01-24-2013, 12:41 PM
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#4
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Also worth mentioning that CO2 is absorbed much faster if the beer is cold...as with force carbing.
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01-24-2013, 12:49 PM
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#5
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Nilo has an awesome blog post about this. He put a pressure gauge on a bottle and plotted the pressure over time.
http://beertech.blogspot.com/2009/12/carbonation-test.html
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Woodland Brewing Company Brewing science for those of us without a Ph.D
BLOG: Brewing Boiled Down and learn more on The WBC You Tube Channel Ready to drink: Champagne Cider, 50c 28c and 19c Ale, Adventinus clone. Up next: Douppleweizenbock, Eisbock, Saision Terri, Raspberry Cream Ale
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01-24-2013, 12:55 PM
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#6
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fer-men-TAY-shuhn
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Lots of information in this thread. Especially the last half.
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It’s best to brew dark beer at night, because that way the darkness gets into the beer. —Bohuslav Hlavsa
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01-24-2013, 01:47 PM
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#7
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That's much higher pressure then I would have expected
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