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01-10-2013, 11:02 PM
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#901
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Senior Member
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 396
Liked 80 Times on 54 Posts Likes Given: 27
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I am the least handy person in the world, but the instructions for this were so easy. I ordered the parts and just tried it--seemed very successful, super easy. We'll see for sure when I open the bottles, but I have a great feeling about it.
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Tried to keep up with this signature, but just couldn't.
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01-18-2013, 10:53 AM
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#902
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Mattawan, MI
Posts: 160
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
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Do you need to use a full size racking can or can you cut it down some?
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01-18-2013, 12:22 PM
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#903
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Awesomeness Award Winnner
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Germantown, MD
Posts: 1,154
Liked 16 Times on 16 Posts Likes Given: 31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by owentp
Do you need to use a full size racking can or can you cut it down some?
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Nope, I use a bottling wand! As long as you have a long liquid line you should be fine (I have 10 ft)
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01-18-2013, 04:07 PM
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#904
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Haddon Heights, NJ
Posts: 181
Liked 8 Times on 5 Posts Likes Given: 12
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ok, so I haven't read every page, but I did read a lot of this a few years ago and tried it... with no success. I believe I did everything right, but the main issue I had (that I think may be the culprit) was temp. If I try to let the beer sit and carb at room temp will it not hold the gas well? I remember when I bottled it was nice and carbed, but in only a few hours it was rather flat. Does the beer need to be carbed cold for this to work optimally?
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01-21-2013, 03:53 AM
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#905
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 143
Liked 16 Times on 12 Posts Likes Given: 7
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I don't get why you would waste CO2 purging the bottle. At the end, you still suck the same amount of air into the bottle when you pull the cane out. A short blast of CO2 maybe would do something at the end, but it still won't get all the O2 out. I think the best method is to loose fit the caps on the bottles for a few minutes to let CO2 from the beer displace some O2 and then use and O2 absorbing cap. i just don't see the point of going through the hassle of connecting the CO2 line to a beer gun.
Also, how necessary is it to use the stopper? I understand the pressure buildup will reduce foaming, but if you have a cold bottle and fill slowly this seems like an unnecessary step.
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01-27-2013, 07:44 PM
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#906
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Manchester, Connecticut
Posts: 134
Liked 3 Times on 3 Posts Likes Given: 2
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Having just skimmed the pages... I was wondering what BMBF is...
Per google it was: The Federal Ministry of Education and Research (Bundesministerium für Bildung und Forschung, BMBF
Thank got for the youtube video i found.. lol
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Be Kind Brewing
"Always Be Kind to a Creative Mind"
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01-27-2013, 08:01 PM
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#907
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 143
Liked 16 Times on 12 Posts Likes Given: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdann87
Having just skimmed the pages... I was wondering what BMBF is...
Per google it was: The Federal Ministry of Education and Research (Bundesministerium für Bildung und Forschung, BMBF
Thank got for the youtube video i found.. lol
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With deference to the OP, I believe it is the BierMuncher Bottle Filler.
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01-29-2013, 09:23 PM
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#908
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ferndale, Washington
Posts: 12
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I have a question that I haven't seen asked throughout this thread (I've probably read through 50 of the 91 pages on here, so I certainly could have missed it!)
I'm certainly no expert on keg line balancing, but the research I've done has told me that 3/16" ID beverage line has a resistance of 3 psi per foot. Assuming there is 12 psi in the keg, a 4 foot section of 3/16" hose should mean less than 1 psi coming out the other end, right? So if you are using 6 or 7 feet, the beer should be at a fraction of a psi or not flowing at all? I realize the elevation difference has an effect too, but the question I have is if we are using a 7 foot liquid line, why do we need to vent the 12 psi from the keg, and lower it to 2-3 psi? Shouldn't the long line negate the need to do this? One reason I ask is if I'm bottling a dry hopped IPA, I don't want to vent the keg and lose all that lovely hop aroma to fill a few bottles. I've had to vent the keg repeatedly before when I've had IPA overcarbonation issues, and it really seemed to affect the hop aroma in the remaining beer. Anyone have an idea on this? Why keg pressure needs to be lowered rather than just using a long enough liquid line to restrict the flow?
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02-01-2013, 08:19 PM
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#909
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 61
Liked 2 Times on 2 Posts
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Is there a video of the OP's process buried in this thread anywhere?
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02-04-2013, 04:34 PM
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#910
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Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 55
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts Likes Given: 1
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Hey Tool, not sure if it would help, but believe the 3/16" is closer to 1.8 psi vs 3 based on reading and personal experience. Longer would help and the beer gun recommends something like 10'.
Cheers,
Dan F.
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