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Old 01-09-2013, 12:35 AM   #11
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I think paying $30 per disconnect just to avoid incidental contact with plastic is a little overboard.
Bobby_M, I don't disagree that it's a little overboard, but that's the way it is for me. I don't use any plastic or teflon or anything synthetic in my kitchen at home, and I'm trying to do the same with my beer. I actually found the disconnect I was looking at for $19 so that's not too bad, but I hear you. It's just worth it to me. I do realize I'll have to use nylon flare washers, but I can live with that because there's no alternative. Of course, if someone told me I could use tree bark instead of nylon, I'd try that instead.

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Ok, well here's an idea. Use stainless for the long runs and add a short piece of braided silicone at the keg end.
Not a bad idea, but I'm really trying to stick with stainless. I'm not crazy enough, though, to think I'll be able to run a single continuous line from my keg, through my fridge, up through the wall, and up to my tap. That would be way to hard to work with if I ever need to pull anything apart or make adjustments to the line. My plan is to run a continuous line from the tap down to just above the fridge in the basement, then have a stainless flare union above the fridge for an easy way to disconnect. Then I can coil up any extra tubing inside the fridge and that should allow at least slight flexibility when working with the ball lock disconnect or anything else with the keg.

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Couldn't agree more, the only thing coming in contact with my brew that isn't stainless, silicone or glass are the beer lines.
Right on, brewingmeister. I'm working on making my entire brewing process stainless & glass only. Someday we'll be the only ones who don't lose all our teeth or grow ears on our necks because of all the plastic everyone comes in contact with all day every day. As far as the difficulties of working with rigid line, read the response I just posted in the paragraph above. I'm hoping the way I'm setting it up will allow for at least a tiny bit of flexibility. The line I'm running from the keg to the tap is a pretty straight run, so it should hopefully only need 2 or 3 bends when all is said and done.
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:34 PM   #12
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How do you plan on keeping the line that runs in the wall cold???

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Old 01-09-2013, 07:56 PM   #13
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I'm planning to start with a small pump in a bucket of water in my fridge. A 1/2" ID poly line will be tightly wrapped with my beer line and then the beer & glycol lines will be wrapped in insulation. I anticipate this not working well enough and having to try something more substantial (expensive) like a glycol pump with a separate cooling source. I'm just trying this first to know that it doesn't work before moving to another solution. Running low on build money at this point.

This guy has a pretty nice setup.

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Old 01-09-2013, 08:13 PM   #14
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The more I think about this the more I like the idea of stainless lines. 1/4'' tube seems more on par with bev lines though and it's smaller so it should be easier to shape. Seems like bending without kinking and finding fittings is where the frustration is going to come from...

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Old 01-09-2013, 08:23 PM   #15
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Rigid Tube Bender http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/400-Seri...s/EN/index.htm will be your best friend if you decide to go with stainless lines.

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Old 01-09-2013, 08:24 PM   #16
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The more I think about this the more I like the idea of stainless lines. 1/4'' tube seems more on par with bev lines though and it's smaller so it should be easier to shape.
You're coming around, brewingmeister.

Keep in mind that the stainless lines are measured in OD. So the ID a 5/16" SS line is really 5/16 minus the wall width. The one I'm looking at is thin wall (.020"), so the ID is .3125" - .040", so .2725"...pretty close to the .265" ID of the Bev-Seal Ultra 235 line that was suggested in the first reply in this thread.
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:28 PM   #17
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Rigid Tube Bender http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/400-Seri...s/EN/index.htm will be your best friend if you decide to go with stainless lines.
Thanks. I'm probably going to have to find a decent flare tool, too. I have a bender and a flaring tool, but they're both pretty cheap and I wouldn't mind having better ones anyway (saying that allows me to exclude the cost from my build budget ).
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:22 PM   #18
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5/16" O.D Stainless has a resistance of .30 psi/ft. Exactly the same as 1/4" Bev-Seal ultra 235.

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Old 01-09-2013, 09:28 PM   #19
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5/16" O.D Stainless has a resistance of .30 psi/ft. Exactly the same as 1/4" Bev-Seal ultra 235.
It seems like these numbers are all over the place. I've found several different resistance values and I've been calculating based on the numbers listed here.

Shouldn't the resistance be calculated based on the ID instead of OD since there are different wall thicknesses on different products?
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:33 PM   #20
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Normally a trunk-line is wrapped first with a moisture barrier wrap (like saran wrap) in apperance. Then wrapped with foil tape to conduct cold transfer, then finally, a good tube insulation, preferably 3/4 inch thick!!!!!

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