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09-10-2006, 10:01 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 103
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Some Kegging Questions
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Howdy, I've been bottling, but have come into possession of a CO2 tank and some corny kegs. I've been reading on the subject but have a few things I need clarification on.
1) Is it okay to put a keg in the fridge on its side? Or must it absolutely be standing up to store and/or operate? (My fridge isn't tall enough for one standing up, and I'm trying to see if I can do this instead of having to buy a dedicated keg fridge)
2) I know with bottling, you have primary > secondary > bottle conditioning (at room temp, for 2 weeks +) > put in fridge, etc. What is the process with kegging? Can't seem to figure that out, and neither of my books explain it. Do you condition in the secondary for the standard amount of time (1-2 weeks), transfer to the keg, and then let it sit in the keg for 2 weeks like you would in bottles? (this seems to make sense to me)
Because I see people saying they go from the secondary fermenter to the keg, and immediately stick the keg in the fridge and force carbonate. It seems like you've then forgone the final ("bottle") conditioning phase because it's cold now (unless you went an extra two weeks in the secondary fermenter, but that wouldn't be the same and it would be too long in there with the yeast and all) And at what point should you force carbonate, after conditioning period or before?
Help me understand where the conditioning comes in here with kegs. Cause I know beer isn't ready to go right after coming out of the secondary.
3) If you buy a dedicated fridge, say the Sanyo SR-4912m which seems to be popular, where can you get those dolly/casters/handles/etc for rolling it around? Probably wouldn't mess with an external tap for a little while.
4) How much of a hassle is it to clean the corny kegs? Easier than bottles I assume?
Thanks.
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09-10-2006, 10:06 PM
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#2
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Cranky Old Guy
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Willamina & Oak Grove, Oregon, USA
Posts: 24,799
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1) If you open the keg and trim the outlet pipe slightly, then bend it so it is touching the side.
2) I keg after 1-2 weeks and let it condition for 4-8 weeks. Forced carbonation is not a replacement for conditioning. I put a little pressure on the keg, just to be certain the lid is sealed, but I don't carbonate until it goes in the kegger.
3) Lowe's
4) Unless you have very small elbows combined with long arms (as I do), you'll need a brush. Every four or five fills, I take the keg apart and clean the tubes with a rifle brush.
__________________
Remember one unassailable statistic, as explained by the late, great George Carlin: "Just think of how stupid the average person is, and then realize half of them are even stupider!"
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09-10-2006, 10:15 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 103
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by david_42
1) If you open the keg and trim the outlet pipe slightly, then bend it so it is touching the side.
2) I keg after 1-2 weeks and let it condition for 4-8 weeks. Forced carbonation is not a replacement for conditioning. I put a little pressure on the keg, just to be certain the lid is sealed, but I don't carbonate until it goes in the kegger.
3) Lowe's
4) Unless you have very small elbows combined with long arms (as I do), you'll need a brush. Every four or five fills, I take the keg apart and clean the tubes with a rifle brush.
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Thanks. Regarding #2:
So you rack from the secondary fermenter into the keg, then hit it with a but of pressure to seal the lid, then set it aside, at room temperature, for a conditioning period (analogous to the bottle conditioning period)? Then after that, you move it to the fridge and carbonate?
If so, that seems sensible to me.
Just one other question though, does the fact that there is no carbonation during the room temp conditioning period affect anything? Because in the bottles, at this point, there would be carbonation... Just wondering.
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09-11-2006, 01:42 AM
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#4
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Cranky Old Guy
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Willamina & Oak Grove, Oregon, USA
Posts: 24,799
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I try to keep the ales around 50F. I just finished a cabinet that can hold 10 cornies and a couple cases of dig bottles. I'm working on the cooling system, but for now two bottles of ice every 24 hours do the job.
I haven't done any kind of comparisons. About all carbonation does is make the beer a little more acidic. Almost all commercial beers are aged, then carbonated. That includes micros.
__________________
Remember one unassailable statistic, as explained by the late, great George Carlin: "Just think of how stupid the average person is, and then realize half of them are even stupider!"
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09-11-2006, 03:06 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 728
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I let mine sit in the secondary double time. When I rack from the first to the secondary I really am careful in making sure that the sediment is left behind. I usually end up with a yeast cake similar to that found in a bottle only in Carboy size. This really helps clear the beer out and get the conditioning I am "looking" for. You can do the same in the keg but can't see it. If I add fruit to the secondary I simply rack off after two weeks and into a tirtiary. I rarely do fruity beers though so I rarely use a third carboy for conditioning. One time I left a Stout in the secondary for about 8 weeks - best stout I ever brewer. Forced carbonated it same day as I racked into the keg and drank it that night - still takes a bit of time to get the carbonation equalibrium - but you can theorehtically drink it hours later - few days of forced carbonation and you will have dynomite beer.
As for cleaning - lets just say one and done - not 48 or 50. Only issue is hauling the set up to parties. Just can't pack a six with ya.
- WW
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09-19-2006, 08:50 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Greenville,NC
Posts: 272
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Can you guys go into more details on Forced carbonation vs. natural carbonation for corny kegs? I want to do a few kegs in the very near future, but still don't quite get the benefits of forced over primed, or vice versa. If you condition in a corny for 2-3 weeks, and then force carb, is that better than kegging and adding the priming sugar, and conditioning for 2-3 weeks? 
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09-19-2006, 10:38 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 367
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Priming may take a few weeks vs. a few days for force carbing. Plus if you force carb you will not have yeast sediment on the bottom from more yeast growing to go at the priming sugars.
__________________
PRIMARY: Air
SECONDARY#1: Air
SECONDARY#2: Air
On Tap: Air
Keg Conditioning: Air
Bottle stock:
Next Up: dunno yet
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My Homebrew Stirplate
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09-19-2006, 11:17 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Boca Raton, FL
Posts: 77
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Pirate Ale
Can you guys go into more details on Forced carbonation vs. natural carbonation for corny kegs? I want to do a few kegs in the very near future, but still don't quite get the benefits of forced over primed, or vice versa. If you condition in a corny for 2-3 weeks, and then force carb, is that better than kegging and adding the priming sugar, and conditioning for 2-3 weeks? 
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Well now!
I like to go to start to finish in around 10 days. I rack directly from primary to keg. So we have fermentation 3 days at 78, then 5 days at 38, then right into the keg. I force carbonate with C02 at 25 psi by shaking the keg for 60 seconds, then repeat after two hours. The following day I am drinking it down!
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09-19-2006, 11:26 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 103
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don't you need 2 weeks of a "bottle conditioning" phase after the initial 10-14 days though?
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09-20-2006, 01:30 AM
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#10
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Resident Crazy Uncle
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Madison WI
Posts: 1,838
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3 weeks is better--- more conditioning generally yeilds better results. Kegging doesn't speed up the conditioning process--- it just lets you take shortcuts and have green, carbonated beer sooner than bottling doesn't.
__________________
Jason 'Kornkob' Robinson
I wanna move to Theory. Everything works in Theory.
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