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Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Bottling/Kegging > Sanyo 4912 Kegerator Conversion
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Old 08-12-2008, 10:42 AM   #111
MoRoToRiUm
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I just did a conversion the other weekend (I still get that warm feeling inside when I come home and see it).

I picked up the same type handles at Lowes for about the same price as your link (FYI for anyone else who is anxious to see their visualization come to fruition). Grab a pair of wire cutters, nip the bolts, cardboard hole spacing template and viola!

Kudos to buford, orpheus, and all the others for sharing their conversions; They helped a lot!

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Old 08-13-2008, 09:54 PM   #112
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Originally Posted by Laurel View Post
I'd consider getting some angle iron and welding it into a 3 sided square. Then just use one "side" of the 4th piece to finish off the square and mount wheels to that. It could be easily removed if you don't like it and seems like it would be more stable/less visible(once painted black) than plywood.

I don't think I follow you and unfortunately don't have access to a welder. I was thinking of cutting out a large square in the center of the plywood and spray painting it black when finished. You'd end up with a 4" wide square frame mounted in each of the four corners. The plywood frame would be smaller than the fridge so it wouldn't protrude from the fridge around the edges, and it'd be painted black so it still wouldn't be completely visible (at least in my mind it wouldn't).

I wish I had a welder and could make a metal frame but that's not really an option. I'm not happy with the plywood either though, which is why I posted to this forum. Can't say I saw too many wheels on the bottom of everyone's kegerators...
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Old 08-14-2008, 11:04 PM   #113
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vinchete,
I'm in the same predicament! In another post, some one had suggested using one/multiple dollies, but I'd much rather have them attached. You can fairly easily do the back wheels, but the front pose a challenge.
What I was planning to do, is take the front feet off (I believe there are just bolts there) and get a piece of metal, either bent or use spacers and matching nuts, to secure the metal to the bolts. Drill some holes in the metal slap on some casters...
Hope that gets you thinking, let me know what you come up with!

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Old 08-17-2008, 08:23 PM   #114
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I successfully installed wheels to the bottom of my Sanyo 4912 conversion earlier this morning. I did it with about $15 in parts I purchased at my local Home Depot. It's a lot simpler than I thought and I'm happy with how it turned out.



The front feet underneath the fridge are 5/16"-18 threaded stem feet. So all you need to replace the front feet with caster wheels is a 5/16"-18 threaded stem caster wheel. Home Depot sells a 2" swivel wheel from Shepherd Hardwood Products that I used for this project. The original feet had a 1/2" stud and the Shepherd caster has a 1" stud, but I was pleased to find that the Shepherd caster screwed all the way into the fridge. I'm not sure how much deeper you can go but these Shepherd casters where $3.98 each and worked out perfectly.



The back wheels were a bit tougher because there are no pre-existing inserts to screw into. I picked up another set of 2" straight wheels from Home Depot, also manufactured by Shepherd. After looking at the bottom of the fridge there's a perfect spot on either side for these wheels.

There's barely enough room to bolt the straight wheels in place, so I pushed the wheel all the way up to the edge of the bent metal and marked where I was going to drill. I started with small bits and progressed up to a 1/4" bit. Using 1/4" nuts, bolts, lock washers and washers I was able to mount the straight wheels in the back.



You can see it's a tight fit on the inside so be careful marking and drilling:


I thought I finished, but when I put the fridge upright I noticed it wasn't level. Luckily, I bought extra washers and after removing and reattaching the wheels a few times I got it level.

Here's what I used to level the fridge:
Front swivel wheels - One 5/16" lock washer only
Rear straight wheels - One 1/4" lock washer closest to the bolt head, and either three or four 1/4" washers between the wheel mount and fridge

I used four washers on the rear straight wheels when the wheel mount was pressing up against the black of the fridge, the fourth washer accounting for the thickness of the metal that the other half of the wheel mount was fastened to.

I suppose you could use sheet metal bolts to attach the rear wheels, but I felt nuts and bolts were more secure - though it was tricky getting them attached. Also, the three or four washer spacers isn't the way I'd prefer to level the fridge, but it's not readily visible so I'll be the only one who knows.

It rolls quite nicely on my carpet. I'll keep an eye out for 2" swivel caster wheels with a brake, but for now this'll do. My SS drip tray is in the mail and the bar handles are on back-order until mid-September. Thank to everyone for the info and advice!

Cheers,
V

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Old 08-18-2008, 10:11 AM   #115
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Looks good! You beat me to it- Once I finish off this keg it looks like I will doing some drilling

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Old 09-11-2008, 10:43 PM   #116
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It's been done for awhile, but my Sanyo has wheels! Rather then dealing with all of the bolts with the fixed wheel setup, I went with the same swivel casters for the back that are used on the front. After using bolts, I spent my small fortune on washers. Five washers on the front/back, plus the ease of only drilling one easier accessible hole in the back it seams fairly solid and stable. The only issue is the caster under the bottom mount for the door. There is not much space for a wrench to tighten it in as much as I would like, but am sure I will remedy that some day...

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Old 10-22-2009, 03:23 AM   #117
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I have a question on the exact position of the whole. When you say you are drilling 9 1/2 inches from the back is that it middle of the hole of the edge?

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Old 11-19-2009, 01:20 AM   #118
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I have a question on the exact position of the whole. When you say you are drilling 9 1/2 inches from the back is that it middle of the hole of the edge?
These links might yield some more info for you.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/gear...ersion-126460/
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Old 11-19-2009, 03:31 AM   #119
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def plan on doing the vodka trick but just some reasurance before i start drilling away. I have also run into problems with the door as i tried to replace it with dry erase board i found the seal doesnt sit flush on the back like the factory door panel preventing the fridge from making an airtight seal, anyone else get this problem or got a solution

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Old 11-19-2009, 08:44 AM   #120
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Quote:
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i tried to replace it with dry erase board... the seal doesnt sit flush ... preventing the fridge from making an airtight seal
How thick is your board? This is what I did:

1. I purchased whiteboard from Home Depot, it was at least 1/8" thick. The panel was something like 8'x4' and I had Home Depot cut it to size.
2. Mark and drill precise screw holes in the whiteboard panel. This part is a PITA and might take a couple tries.
3. The edges of the whiteboard panel should fit in the rubber stripping that you took off the factory panel. Once you have fitted the stripping to the whiteboard, screw the whiteboard panel back onto the refridgerator door.
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