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Old 02-25-2008, 01:02 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evan!
I don't wanna start a new thread for this question, so I'm gonna go ahead and ask it here:

When I got my new co2 tank filled at the welding supply place on Friday, they gave it back to me with a little blue plastic ring hanging from the neck via a rubber band. It looks like it's the perfect size to sit in between the two fittings when I attach the regulator. Is this something I should be using? I have it attached without it right now, and it's not leaking as far as I can tell.
I never got one of those, so obviously I'm not using one. Maybe my regulator has one inside already...
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Old 02-25-2008, 01:14 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulive
I never got one of those, so obviously I'm not using one. Maybe my regulator has one inside already...
The regulator has a little black o-ring (looks like a ball lock post o-ring to me) built into the face of it---the face that compresses against the tank. But the tank has a circular groove in its face that matches up with the circular raised portion on the plastic piece. I'll take pics later...I'm curious as to what it's for.
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Old 02-25-2008, 09:39 PM   #103
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I have a short 10lb tank that would probably fit. I know it fits height wise. If you built a shelf and removed the door insides it would probably be able to hold it. I'm too lazy to build a shelf for it so I stuck it outside and ran the gas line through the drain hole.

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Old 02-25-2008, 11:05 PM   #104
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How do you guys fit a 1/4 keg in this sanyo? I just measured mine and the depth was like 13 inches. This site:http://www.micromatic.com/beer-quest...le-aid-11.html it seems it wouldnt be deep enough to fit one...

Thanks!

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Old 02-29-2008, 02:54 AM   #105
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Another member of the family fresh off the assembly line.



Here you can sort of see where the line is. In fact if you want to do it even cheaper you don't really need the cornstarch test. You can run the back of your hand along the top of the metal and clearly feel the warm spot vs the rest being cool.



Also as a tip to the next people who do the conversion: I used #10-24 x 5/16" T-nuts and #10-24 x 3/4" machine screws and it was a perfect fit. No need to trim the ends off.

Thanks again to all who have posted this info to help the rest of us build this wonderful machine!

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Old 02-29-2008, 02:59 AM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evan!
The regulator has a little black o-ring (looks like a ball lock post o-ring to me) built into the face of it---the face that compresses against the tank. But the tank has a circular groove in its face that matches up with the circular raised portion on the plastic piece. I'll take pics later...I'm curious as to what it's for.
It's a seal and it should be used!
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Old 03-01-2008, 12:35 PM   #107
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Nicely done Paranode!

What's going to be pouring out of those taps first?

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Old 03-01-2008, 05:45 PM   #108
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Got an Irish Red coming out of the tap now, and a dunkelweizen still conditioning. Nitrogen regulator, tank, and stout faucet are also on the way for my stout.

The beer I poured from the tap was the best I've ever tasted. Don't know if it's because I'm getting better or it was just 'cause I thought it was so cool.

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Old 08-11-2008, 07:56 PM   #109
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The last post to this thread was a while ago, but I actually just stumbled upon it after doing the same conversion to my Sanyo fridge this weekend. The web site that told me where to drill the Sanyo must have been a web gallery of a member because the pics are similar. This is all good stuff and it's given me a few ideas for how to make my kegerator even better.

One thing I've been struggling with is how to mount wheels to the bottom. Has anyone had any success?

I'm thinking about using the threaded holes that the rubber feet mount with to bolt a piece of plywood underneath the fridge, and mount wheels to the plywood. This gets convoluted because I still have to drill through the metal plate in the back of the fridge and knotch the plywood where the lower hinge protrudes.

I haven't had any luck yet finding wheels that screw directly into the threaded holes that the rubber feet mount to.

Any thoughts?

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Old 08-11-2008, 08:31 PM   #110
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I'd consider getting some angle iron and welding it into a 3 sided square. Then just use one "side" of the 4th piece to finish off the square and mount wheels to that. It could be easily removed if you don't like it and seems like it would be more stable/less visible(once painted black) than plywood.

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