Sanke keg spear question
 

So I used a sanke keg as a fermenter. Removed the spear, used a carboy cap and an airlock. Worked fabulous.

Now it's time to cold crash it and get the beer out into Cornys.

I would like to put the spear back in and use CO2 to push the beer into the cornys.

My question is can I just put the spear in and not put that spring thingy back in? I'm assuming once I lock the sanke connector/dispenser in to pump out the beer will hold the spear in by itself?

Your co2 will leak out. You need the snap ring to make the "O" ring seal so you can pressurize it.

Poop, it was a pain taking the snap ring out it'll be a real PITA getting it back in :(

It's really easy to get back in. Taking it out is harder, but also pretty quick and easy after a little practice. To replace it, simply get it started by hand, and then squeeze it into the groove with some pliers, working your way around. Should take 15 seconds tops. Also, if you align it so that the top end is just past one of the notches in the neck, it will make removing it easier for the next time.

Here ya go on installing the spiral ring...w/ a little practice it becomes easy to remove and reinstall...or hust use a racking cane as the sanke dip tube may extend into the yeast and suck that up also unless shortened.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/installing-retaining-ring-sanke-keg-64128/

St pats has a specialty "keg tool". It looks pretty look but it's almost 100 bucks

Been doing it for years without a "keg tool" without issue...small sharp screwdriver for removal, small pliers or channel locks for installation.

No need to reinstall the spear to transfer.

I use a racking cane down the large bore hole, attached to the Liquid QD of the corny keg. I attach the gas line to the small bore on the carboy cap, and clamp it with a screw clamp. You might need to use a short length of racking cane to join the cap and the gas line, if your gas line wont fit over the spout on the carboy cap. Then just slowly increase the PSI, until the beer flows into your corny.

Hmmmm I had read that the first few ounces are trub then it runs clear using the spear and the CO2? This is a 10 gallon batch of blackberry wheat with 5lbs of picked then frozen and pureed and poured into the primary after about 2 weeks of primary fermentation. SO will it work or will trub be a problem? I don't have a racking cane that long (yet).

IF you use the valve/spear, you'll want to cut it shorter. Otherwise it will go down into the trub and try to push that into the first keg. From the sounds of it, that could be a significant amount for you.

I've used regular length racking canes to transfer from a tall 1/4bbl keg without issue. I would highly recommend fitting the other end of the tube (on the racking cane) to connect up to the liquid post on your serving keg(s). Then just hit the keg with some CO2 (a few PSI is all that's needed here), purge via the lid valve, then open the lid (so you can see when it's about full) but have a sanitized (StarSan soaked) towel or paper towel to cover the opening, and fill the keg. The remaining CO2 in the keg will blanket the beer as it flows into the keg. Using the liquid post means you only need to sanitize the inside of the tubing the beer is flowing through. This is the method I use to transfer from fermenter to serving keg (I have some TC caps adapted to pull via another dip tube).

Just remember, with the carboy cap on the keg, you only want/need a few PSI of CO2 to push the beer. Don't go too high, and have the second keg standing by to get the beer transferred to it. Using the liquid post also means you don't handle the tubing and then have to put it into the second keg. You can also use larger ID tubing for the beer transfer. I've set up a hose that's 5/16" ID for this. It allows more beer to flow through compared with the 3/16" tubing I was using. I fitted both ends with swivel nuts so that I can simply connect liquid QD's to both ends for the transfer.