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Old 05-04-2007, 01:01 AM   #1
Yuri_Rage
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Default Sanke keg further revealed!

I just (legally) got my first 1/2 bbl Sanke keg for conversion to a keggle. I think it previously held a bit of Old St. Anky (obscure? movie reference), because it smelled like a wastewater treatment plant when I relieved the keg pressure. Nothing a little OxyClean and BKF won't fix...

Anyway, I read about disassembling the Sanke fitting on this site. Something he doesn't mention:
RELIEVE THE KEG PRESSURE BEFORE DISASSEMBLY!!!.
That aside, his instructions are pretty comprehensive...until...

Quote:
I cut open the ball valve to see if there was further disassembly possible. There isn't.
It seems he was a little more destructive than was required, so I'll post my own version here (no cutting required, reassembly is possible). The fittings on my keg were just slightly different, but I think the same procedure would work with one like he shows on his site. On to the good stuff:

Here is the entire assembled spear:



Here is the spring retainer that looks like a challenge:



You don't need any fancy tools - just a big wrench. Just press and turn, catching one of the tabs with the edge of the wrench face, until the retainer ring is unlocked. It doesn't take a ton of strength.



What it looks like with the retainer unlocked:

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Old 05-04-2007, 01:01 AM   #2
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Now you should be able to disassemble the spear entirely.



Here's the valve that the guy from UA destroyed:



Turns out, you can just pull the hard rubber seal out of the spear housing:



Now you can really clean everything well (which was required for my keg...and probably all "retired" kegs, for that matter).



Next up on my to-do list: weld the Sanke fitting to a corny lid so I can take my kegs to places with only Sanke fittings. I shall call it: Sankelius...or Cornanke...or Sankius...or Canke...yeah, Canke...that sounds...gross.

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Old 05-04-2007, 01:37 AM   #3
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Man you are always building something. I guess idle hands are the devils work. So you gonna weld your own valve on that badboy? I just cut the top off of my sanke today. It still had beer in it. It really stunk. I need to find me a valve setup. Think I'll take it to a pro welder. That's something I can't even do. By the way, I finished my malt mill. It was posted yesterday. Let me know what you think.

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Old 05-04-2007, 05:09 AM   #4
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Yuri, some of the local micros use exactly that. A Cornie that has a Sankey tap connector, right in the middle of the oval port, and the oval port welded in place. The Cornie QDs have been removed, welded shut, and covered with rubber plugs. I've got one at work, full of Sonoran Root-beer. (Yes the hoses needed replacing anyway.) Sonoran Rootbeer is about the best I've ever tasted, and I've been drinking Rootbeer for more years than I care to think about!

(Oh, that guy was at UA, not ASU.)

steve

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Old 05-04-2007, 05:13 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skou
Yuri, some of the local micros use exactly that. A Cornie that has a Sankey tap connector, right in the middle of the oval port, and the oval port welded in place. The Cornie QDs have been removed, welded shut, and covered with rubber plugs.
I've seen those., and that's pretty much what I'm going for. I'd like to keep the oval lid removable, that way I can move my Sanke fitting to different kegs as the need arises.

To answer the question from further up, yes, I'll be doing all the welding and cutting on my keggle. If I can find a way to take some pics of the process in action, I'll post them.
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Old 05-04-2007, 05:16 AM   #6
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Yuri
I just searched the wikki for keggle with nothing found
Whats a keggle?
JJ

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Old 05-04-2007, 05:18 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaybird
Whats a keggle?
A 1/4 or 1/2 bbl keg converted for use as a brew kettle.

OR

Spelled kegel, it's a bit more interesting, but not for this site. Google it.
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Old 05-04-2007, 05:20 AM   #8
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thanks
google is fun isent it
JJ

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Old 05-04-2007, 05:31 AM   #9
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Yuri, I don't see how you're going to remove the access cover, unless you also remove the spike from it. You have to lean the cover sideways to get it out. And, removing that spike is "fun."

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Old 05-04-2007, 05:35 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skou
Yuri, I don't see how you're going to remove the access cover, unless you also remove the spike from it. You have to lean the cover sideways to get it out. And, removing that spike is "fun."
I've already considered that...and I didn't think that disassembling the fitting was all that tough. Sure, it's a few minutes of extra work, but I like the idea of being able to move my Sanke lid around.

EDIT:
Actually, I should re-word that...
When I made my steam boiler, I found out the hard way (by getting excited and cutting before thinking) that extending a fitting inside a Corny lid makes it tough to get the lid off. Removing that heating element every time is a ROYAL PITA (requires removal of the wiring, a big wrench, and a lot of finesse to maneuver the big wrench).
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