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Old 11-13-2012, 04:35 PM   #11
jhook
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yeah I got to cold. This morning the keg reading at 39, but my cup of water was 33 degrees and some ice. Beer to cold, not flowing from spout. Adj. coarse screw back to CW and trying to find a happy spot. Dump the water and poured beer in cup. Now on I'm going to check beer temp instead of keg temp.
Thanks,
John



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Old 11-13-2012, 04:54 PM   #12
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Had the same problem with a danby. Had a auto defrosting feature that would freeze my beer. Sucked up and bought a Beverage Air and never had a problem, It has a cooling tower so every beer is cold and it holds temp at plus or minus 2 degrees. But it takes a bit out of your wallet at $1600 for a single tap model that holds 4 kornies. But its all stainless interior and easy to clean. Made in USA with a 5 year warranty. Good luck !



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Old 11-13-2012, 05:30 PM   #13
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I have a Danby as well. I'll post a link below to a very helpful site with all the details regarding what I'm going to say.

First, the Danby is worth what you paid for it. Of the inexpensive kegerators it is the one I prefer. I have two and the Danby is superior.

Having said that though, I have done several modifications which I recommend to you.

The biggest one is the temperature controller is notoriously bad. I replaced mine with a Johnson digital.

Next, a lot of the beer foam issue is because the beer in the tower is warmer than the beer in the keg, consequently the co2 comes out of solution too rapidly. I bought a unit off of ebay (but you can make one) that is simply a box fan with a hose which takes the cold air from the bottom of the kegerator and circulates it up into the tower, keeping the beer in the tower the same temp as the beer in the keg,

Next, I got a Minkota digital fishing thermometer, ran the wire into the Danby and into a large beer can filled with distilled water. This way I am measuring liquid temperature not air temperature - they are sometimes wildly different. And BTW, pay no attention to the temp. reading on the front of the Danby.

Finally, get (if you don't already have one) a good, quick reading digital thermometer that is used for cooking. Calibrate it by putting it in ice water to check if it is accurate. If it shows 32* it is accurate. If it doesn't, note how much it is off and figure that into any future measurements. I say this because it is ultimately BEER temperature that is important.

Oh and one more thing. If you are not already using a chart like this one: http://www.kegerators.com/articles/carbonation-table-pressure-chart.php Use it to set the psi on your regulator. The pressure of the co2 must be set in relation to the temperature of the beer.

No One MORE thing. Check the length of your beer lines. frequently they are way too short. 5 to 10 feet is good. What happens is the beer comes out too fast if the beer line is too short, resulting in a glass of foam. In my Danby I have a 5' beer line and a 10'.

Here is the link I mentioned above:
http://www.micromatic.com/forum/us-en/kegerators-kegerator-kits-home/6587-danby-kegerator-improvements-part-ii.html

Good luck. I have pictures if they would help.
Steve

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Old 11-15-2012, 07:12 PM   #14
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I had foaming issues with my Danby as well, sure we all do.

I resolved mine by adjusting the temp to where I needed via the coarse adjustment screw, and then running a half inch wide copper pipe from the top of my tower down into the kegerator. I run my two tap lines through this (one is super thin 3/16th silicon, ice maker line basically, so they JUST fit) and this brings the cold temps up the lines fine. The tap itself still is a 'hot' point, but it's not enough to concern me, just a whisp of foam now.

I run 20 and 25 foot 3/16th lines for my taps, and it's slow pouring on my ice maker line, I should trim that one down to 15 or so. The other line is a smoother interior I think so the 20foot gives it good flow and little foam.

But the copper pipe was a huge improvement, just ensure enough sticks down into the fridge to bring cold up, like a foot or so would be ideal. But note that the manufacturer hole in the top does not allow for 2 half inch copper tubes, you could do a single 1 inch tube I bet, or a 3/4 inch, but not two half inchers.

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Old 11-25-2012, 09:01 PM   #15
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I just ordered one of these from Costco. Good info. Now I'll just need to convert it from Sanke to two ball-lock cornies. Oh... and add a second faucet. Suggestions welcome.

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Old 11-26-2012, 12:42 PM   #16
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The easiest way to convert from one to two faucets is to replace the tower. 2 tap towers are not that expensive and you can sell your old one on-line. And converting from Sankey ro ball-lock involves cutting off the fittings that attach to the Sankey coupler & attaching ball-lock disconnects.

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Old 11-26-2012, 01:31 PM   #17
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I bought my wife a countertop wine refrigerator for Christmas last year, and I was going nuts trying to get it to chill the bottles. I cranked the thermostat all the way up to "Maximum," but the wine was only slighly cool.

Out of desperation, I dialed the thermostat back to "Minimum," and voila! Cold wine. Turns out "Maximum" referred to the temperature, not the chilling power. I was inadvertently setting the fridge to the "Maximum" temperature in its range, when instead I wanted the "Minimum" (coldest) setting.

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Old 12-08-2012, 04:24 PM   #18
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One Last Thing.

I installed a digital thermometer on the outside of my kegerator. It has two probes, one for the internal temp. of kegerator, and the other I put inside a plastic drinking bottle full of distilled water. My keg. is reading on the avg. of 45 degrees, and water 36 degrees.

My question is what should the distilled water temp. should be kept? I want to adj. thermostat to the water temp. not the kegerator temp.

John

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Old 12-27-2012, 09:15 PM   #19
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Default Danby 5.2 Cu.Ft. Keg Cooler DKC146SLDB

Quote:
Originally Posted by dog_gone View Post
I just ordered one of these from Costco. Good info. Now I'll just need to convert it from Sanke to two ball-lock cornies. Oh... and add a second faucet. Suggestions welcome.
I finally set this up. Converted it to two taps with ball lock connections; works like a charm so far. Mine came with a dual regulator. No problems with maintaining temps.

Sadly, it only fits two of my ball lock corny kegs. I was hoping for three, but no go. The drip tray is hokey and too small for two taps; it will be replaced.

Overall, I'm quite happy with it. In retrospect, if I were to do it again, I'd probably go with something bigger to fit 3-4 corny kegs.
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:07 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dog_gone View Post
I finally set this up. Converted it to two taps with ball lock connections; works like a charm so far. Mine came with a dual regulator. No problems with maintaining temps.

Sadly, it only fits two of my ball lock corny kegs. I was hoping for three, but no go. The drip tray is hokey and too small for two taps; it will be replaced.

Overall, I'm quite happy with it. In retrospect, if I were to do it again, I'd probably go with something bigger to fit 3-4 corny kegs.
Most full size refrigerators will hold 6 at a time.


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