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Old 05-18-2012, 01:55 PM   #1
knotquiteawake
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Default R.I.P. Kegerator MK1

My custom built kegerator gave up the ghost sometime earlier this week (i still hadn't hooked up the tap lines after moving yet). Not sure when. I just found out last night. Realized the fridge sounded quiet and checked it, and sure enough... the kegs were warm. The Fridge makes a high pitched noise for a few seconds when you plug it in and then goes silent... dead silent.

Guess I'll be bottling the next couple batches.


I put a lot of work into this baby too. I removed the door panel, installed a plywood base for the tap tower, drilled the hole for the tap tower. and just last week FINALLY (after two years) got around to doing the chalkboard paint on the door.

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Old 05-18-2012, 01:59 PM   #2
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It had been cooling just fine after the move too. Worked for about a week I guess. So I don't think moving damaged it, it stayed upright the whole time too.
I've got to take a look later tonight see if there's anything loose or that looks burnt out I can replace simply.

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Old 05-18-2012, 03:44 PM   #3
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It may be worth getting a new compressor for it if that's the problem. What brand fridge and how old?

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Old 05-18-2012, 03:48 PM   #4
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Its a Danby Millenium, one of the kind of hard to find (used) fridges that don't have the freezer section which makes it SUPER easy to turn into a kegerator (No bending of freezer sections!). Also it has the coolant lines on the sides and not on the top, making it safe to drill through the top of the fridge.
I've owned it for like two years, but I bought it used off CL for $60 so I don't know how old it really is. If the compressor is more than $60 than its probably not worth it.

Kegerator MK2 might just end up being a Keezer instead. The problem is that with a Keezer it makes more sense to use faucets in the collar instead of a tap tower but I really don't want to waste the nice (expensive) tap tower my wife got me for Christmas last year.

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Old 05-18-2012, 03:49 PM   #5
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You should test the overload/start relay. Its on the compressor. If that goes bad it will not allow the fridge to start. If it is the culprit, you can order a new one for around 15 dollars.

You can also test the compressor with an ohm meter. As demonstrated here
http://www.applianceaid.com/refrigerator.html#clicking

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Old 05-18-2012, 03:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scsnick View Post
You should test the overload/start relay. Its on the compressor. If that goes bad it will not allow the fridge to start. If it is the culprit, you can order a new one for around 15 dollars.

You can also test the compressor with an ohm meter. As demonstrated here
http://www.applianceaid.com/refrigerator.html#clicking
Yes, just did a little research and it may be the relay. New compressor would not be worth it from what I've researched.
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Old 05-18-2012, 04:10 PM   #7
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You might be right.
I removed the plastic cover that was over the relay and while it doesn't look burnt out it does look a little worn down. Also, after about 30 seconds of being plugged in a small arc of electricity "pops" between the relay and the bracket its mounted to.
Its worth $15-30 to try and repair it I guess.

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Old 05-18-2012, 04:11 PM   #8
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For what its worth, you can "hotwire" it to start even with a bad relay. I take no responsibility for what you do though. I did this once and it worked, but its obviously not ideal.

http://tech.akom.net/archives/31-Getting-your-refrigerator-to-run-without-a-start-relay-while-you-wait-for-the-part.html

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Old 05-18-2012, 04:13 PM   #9
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I might try it, if I do that and the compressor still doesn't start then at least I don't waste money on a part that won't fix it.

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Old 05-18-2012, 04:16 PM   #10
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After reading the "hack" i've decided I value my new home and life too much to try it. I'll just order the part and see what happens.

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