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Old 01-02-2009, 08:27 PM   #1
Jif
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Default Questions about Building a New Kegerator

Hey guys,

I'm looking at building a kegerator out of an Oster 5.0cu ft fridge I picked up today at Best Buy, which after all of my recent lurking appears to be the logical choice for things you can actually go out and purchase. My girlfriend got me a homebrew kegging setup from a local brew shop for Christmas, which consisted of the hose from Co2 to keg, a reconditioned Cornelius, a picnic line, and a dual gauge reg.

My original plan was to do two kegs, with door mounted faucets. Would there be enough clearance in this fridge to do this? It's a heck of a lot cheaper than doing a tower mount, but if it won't fit then it just won't fit.

Secondly, the regulator she got me was clearly set up for one keg, not two. Would there be anything I needed other than an air distributor and some hoses to make it work for two kegs?

Finally, the setup didn't come with Co2. So far this:

5 lb. Aluminum Co2 Tank | BeverageFactory.com

Has been the cheapest I can find one. I'm in the St. Louis area and everything I'm seeing on Craiglist is 15# or bigger, and I'm a bit wary of drilling holes in this sides of this. Does anybody know of any cheaper 5# or should I buck up and try and get a bigger one and drill a hole?

Sidenote: I heard that on the Oster there are no coolant lines on top, is this true?

Thanks in advance, all!

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Old 01-02-2009, 09:04 PM   #2
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I have found that keeping co2 outside the fridge works best. The gauges are more accurate. Get the biggest tank that you can you will soon find that you'll be using co2 for more than pushing beer out of kegs.

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Old 01-02-2009, 09:10 PM   #3
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Is there an easy way to tell where to drill a hole for it?

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Old 01-02-2009, 09:12 PM   #4
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The place where I get my CO2 filled sells Steel bottles pre-filled. I got mine for $45 filled.

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Old 01-02-2009, 09:18 PM   #5
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You could put the taps through the door, but I don't think you would save much as the only thing you wouldn't need is the tower itself. But there is enough space above the kegs to run the line to the door and use one of the recesses. IMO not worth the hassle at all.

You can just use a single regulator with a y splitter, but you are better off with 2 seperate regulators so that you can run different pressures for each keg.

You are talking about an appliance that you will have and use for many years to come. Spending an extra $100 now to do it right is nothing over the long term.

Here is my conversion steps for this fridge.

Oster Conversion!

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Old 01-02-2009, 09:54 PM   #6
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Slipgate: I had read over your conversion steps a lot, they were key in my decision to get this fridge! Thanks for making them so easy to read/follow.

What would I gain by running two regulators? Would I often want to keep kegs at different pressures?

You've convinced me on the tower idea, I figure I may as well toss the extra money in now. The one I'm looking at is:

Draft Beer TowerBeverageFactory.com

Seems like a solid price, though I had planned on doing Perlicks, this appears to come with faucets already. Does stainless insulate better than other chromed metals? The chrome ABS is another big step up in price, which is rough for a college student piecing together a beer setup.

Does anyone see a problem buying a used Co2 tank? I found one relatively nearby for $40 for a 15#. Seems like a solid deal to me, just have to find where to drill a line through this thing. Does the Oster have a drain hole like the Sanyo did?

What is involved in making those tower adapters connect to a Cornelius keg?

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Old 01-03-2009, 12:40 PM   #7
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If you always have the same type of beer, then running the same pressure in each tank is ok. But I usually have a stout in one and an ale in the other. Not that big a deal, but it gives you more options.

I'd definately go with the Perlicks. I started with the cheapies and replaced them not 6 months later with the Perlicks. I'd also try Keg Connection, he will custom build a kit with whatever components you want.

I got the brass, and I wish I had gone with the stainless. The brass discolors a lot. As far as insulating, they are most likely the same. The inside of the tower comes with a layer of insulation.

I'd also buy the 5# tank so that you can self contain everything inside the fridge. I don't like the idea of running the air lines through the fridge. The only way I'd do this is if you rigged up some quick airline disconnects on the inside (like some kind of permanent tap) with posts on the holes so you didn't have a hole going through the fridge (per se). The other problem with used tanks is that tanks have to be certified (I think every 5 years). What is the date on the used tanks?

I don't know what the tower adapters are??

Hope this helps!

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Old 01-03-2009, 02:09 PM   #8
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All you need to do is get ball lock connectors and replace the ones on the faucet lines. Not sure which tower you will be getting, but the shanks typically have 1/4'' barb connector on the back. 3/16'' lines (most kits will have 3'-5', but I recommend longer once you look at balancing your system). On the other end, if it comes with sankey, it will either have a 1/4'' female connector attached to sankey, or 1/4'' barb straight on the sankey. If it has a barb, you can cut it off and get a connect with a 1/4'' barb, or a 1/4'' barb to female 1/4'' nut. With the nut then they sell connects with a 1/4'' thread you can just screw it on.

Barb:


or thread:

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Old 01-03-2009, 02:14 PM   #9
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You can save $30 if you a do a search on ebay for "draft tower."

There's a listing on there for a double draft tower all complete with a buy it now at 89.95 and there are two available.

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Old 01-03-2009, 03:24 PM   #10
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I didn't look, but that's where I got min- I think KegCowboy. New faucets, longer lines, but like the tower!

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