One, you way overcarbed by shaking until no CO2 flowed. That means you were carbonated a lot closer to 30 PSI than 9-13. To "decarbonate", shut off gas, purge the keg, wait a few hours, do it again, and repeat until you have better carbonation. Your beer tastes undercarbed because the overcarbonation in the keg is causing a massive amount of foam as you dispense, knocking extra CO2 out of suspension and making your beer go flat!
Second, I agree with longer line. I use 10' of 3/16ths beverage line, (which has smoother walls than the crap at lowes, and also has thicker walls to give a smother pressure drop, (less flex)). I carbonate to, and dispense at, 10 PSI.
__________________ Itchy Dog Brewery.
(As of 10-24-2011) Primary - Steppe 112 PA, 2x Monday RyePA Aging - None :-( On tap - Big Dog, Apfelwein, Steppe 112 PA
One, you way overcarbed by shaking until no CO2 flowed. That means you were carbonated a lot closer to 30 PSI than 9-13. To "decarbonate", shut off gas, purge the keg, wait a few hours, do it again, and repeat until you have better carbonation. Your beer tastes undercarbed because the overcarbonation in the keg is causing a massive amount of foam as you dispense, knocking extra CO2 out of suspension and making your beer go flat!
Thanks, but I shook at 30 PSI at room temp (about 65F), which according to this chart http://www.ebrew.com/primarynews/ct_carbonation_chart.htm
means that I put something less than 3 volumes into the beer. This makes sense, because after letting it stay in the fridge for a couple of days at 40F (CO2 off), the regulator read 15 psi, which (again, according to the chart) shows about 2.75 volumes. There's nothing to purge since it's been pretty steady around 10-12 psi (CO2 disconnected) for a couple of weeks. The pressure doesn't climb back up when I purge or draw a pint, so I know it's in steady state equilibrium.
Thanks, but I shook at 30 PSI at room temp (about 65F), which according to this chart http://www.ebrew.com/primarynews/ct_carbonation_chart.htm
means that I put something less than 3 volumes into the beer. This makes sense, because after letting it stay in the fridge for a couple of days at 40F (CO2 off), the regulator read 15 psi, which (again, according to the chart) shows about 2.75 volumes. There's nothing to purge since it's been pretty steady around 10-12 psi (CO2 disconnected) for a couple of weeks. The pressure doesn't climb back up when I purge or draw a pint, so I know it's in steady state equilibrium.
Ah, didn't realize this. In that case, longer lines, or that funky diptube epoxy stirrer trick, (which should work fine, but is a little too "fancy" for my tastes).
__________________ Itchy Dog Brewery.
(As of 10-24-2011) Primary - Steppe 112 PA, 2x Monday RyePA Aging - None :-( On tap - Big Dog, Apfelwein, Steppe 112 PA
I would serve at a lower pressure and see how that works for you. I have mine set to about 6-8psi with 5ft hose.
As far as the plastic mixing pieces in the dip tube go, I would advise against it. I have stated my concerns about them in that other thread, but will say it here again. We use those to mix some pretty toxic chemicals in the aviation industry.
I dont know if this has ever been answered but I doubt that they are food safe. Considering their intended purpose, it is highly unlikely that they are. They may even be impregnanted with other chemicals to make them able to withstand the chemicals they are likely to encounter during their intended use.
I know that people have great success with them, but thats my 2 cents.
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"If women and beer are not the answer, then your asking the wrong questions" (anonymous)
I have 5' of line on my taps as well. I did the set it and forget it method for two weeks at 12 psi, then bumped it down to 10 psi ever since. My beer comes out with anywhere between 1/2" to 1" of head on it, which is what is desired. I dont know if anyone has brought this up, but if you have a warm spot in your fridge where your lines are, the foaming could be comming from that.
I ordered from Mcmaster Carr on monday 8 March and had them shipped UPS ground. Got here Wed 10 March so 3 days.
Took a little trial and error and no I haven't done any double blind studies and it will also take more trial and error to dial it all in.
I have 2 cornys running 5' of line at about 12 psi after 2 weeks at pressure. The cider was ok with about 2" of head and the ale was all foam.
I used a whole, 3", epoxy mixer on the cider.
I cut one in half and used 4.5" of epoxy mixer on the ale.
Both in the dip tubes
They both pour very slow now but have only about 1" of foam that dissipates quickly.
As testament to the success, my neighbor that stops by frequently and pours a glass, came in the kitchen last night with a full glass of the ale and said "you fixed your kegorator!!!"
I know they are probably loaded with BPA, Dioxins, and phthalates DEHP and DBP so use at own risk and real bits of panther.
As for me I figure the loads of **** I've inhaled and eaten during 4 trips to Iraq including a trip through a "smoking gun chemical Plant" between Al Sulymania and Halabja should cover me as far as cancer go.
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"It is not the critic who counts: not the man who points out how the strong man stumbles or where the doer of deeds could have done better. The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena, whose face is marred by dust and sweat and blood, who strives valiantly, who errs and comes up short again and again,"
I picked up a few of those mcmaster carr twister mixer beer slower thingies # 74695A58 and it has changed my life! I don't really want 15 foot of hose in my fridge for each draft faucet. Now I have 3 foot of 1/4" line and the pour is smooth and consistent with no foaming. I put one each in the tube and one in the shank of the tap where it goes through the wall of the fridge. Takes a few more seconds to pour but its night and day compared to what it used to be like.
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Former Cellarmaster Pyramid Ales Kalama, WA
Former Worker Drone Strohs Rainier Brewing, Seattle
Current home brewer
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