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-   -   Plastic Inside of Fridge door (http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/plastic-inside-fridge-door-74560/)

bmac197 07-31-2008 07:43 PM

Plastic Inside of Fridge door
 
I am preparing my fridge to convert it to a keggerator and I have a question about the plastic trays on the inside of the door. The part where I would like to put the taps has an egg holder there. Do i remove the whole plastic piece or should I just cut the egg holder portion off?

I am assumining there is insulation behind the plastic piece which should be left in there. I figured they used the plasic trays inside to hold the insulation in but thought someone might be able to tell me different.

Thanks
ben

Displaced MassHole 07-31-2008 07:50 PM

You're right about the insulation behind there. If its possible for you I'd cut out the whole plastic piece and and just replace it with a whole new sheet of either plastic or thin plywood that you could get at home depot/lowes. I haven't done it to mine yet but I plan on it when the budget allows for more equipment upgrades. Plus when I do replace the plastic I plan on using rigid foam insulation instead of the fiberglass thats back there right now.

Damonic 07-31-2008 08:17 PM

I've seen a mid sized sanyo fridge that didn't quite have enough room to fit a 1/4 barrel in. So the guy just beat the hell out of the egg holder/butter holder/shelves until there was room. :rolleyes:

So I showed him how to unscrew the plastic shell and remove the door seal. Now he just has to buy a sheet of that Lowes/Home Depot plastic shower stuff, cut to size, install, and reattach the door seal.

Sure you could just cut out the original plastic but it'll look like hell and you could have all sorts of stuff growing down there if you ever spill or leak.

bmac197 07-31-2008 08:22 PM

Thanks guys. I pulled the seal back and saw that I could remove I was just nervous about doing so if it wasnt necessary. I wasn't sure if it would be to difficult to replace with wood. I hadn't even thought about the growing bacteria behind it because of a leak. great point.

I think I will get a thin sheet of plywood and replace it all, possibly the insulation as well. We'll see how it looks.

Ben

plumber 08-01-2008 01:11 AM

Replaced mine with 1/8" hard board and worked like a charm, untill i noticed through the holes I just drilled that the light was on with the door closed. I found out that the light switch is activated by a part of the plastic that had been removed. This is more just a FYI that your light switch might need a little jerry rigging to get it to work right.

Displaced MassHole 08-01-2008 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by plumber (Post 780985)
Replaced mine with 1/8" hard board and worked like a charm, untill i noticed through the holes I just drilled that the light was on with the door closed. I found out that the light switch is activated by a part of the plastic that had been removed. This is more just a FYI that your light switch might need a little jerry rigging to get it to work right.

Good info, that damn light bulb can really throw off your temps if you're not careful.....cheers:mug:

conpewter 08-01-2008 01:37 PM

My fridge had hard foam insulation not fiberglass in the door, just removed the whole plastic inside and replaced with flashing (though the plastic shower liner is a better idea)

Cookiebaggs 08-01-2008 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by plumber (Post 780985)
Replaced mine with 1/8" hard board and worked like a charm, untill i noticed through the holes I just drilled that the light was on with the door closed. I found out that the light switch is activated by a part of the plastic that had been removed. This is more just a FYI that your light switch might need a little jerry rigging to get it to work right.

Unscrew bulb. Problem solved.


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