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01-18-2012, 07:32 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Wakefield, Ma
Posts: 67
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Pin Lock vs Ball Lock
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So im building my first keezer and im in the process of making my shopping list and I wanted some advice from fellow homebrewers about the differences between ball lock kegs and pin lock. Now the obvious differences are the sizes, where pin locks are wider (typically 9" where ball locks are 8.5") and shorter (22-24" where ball locks are 25") and also the difference in price. Ive found the pin locks for about $30 and the ball locks for around $39. Now besides price and size what other differences are there? are there pros and cons to the different type? I dont think this will make any different but I already own one ball lock keg.
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01-18-2012, 07:38 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Vegas Baby...Yeah
Posts: 197
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I have both, they both work fine. The only bad part about it is having to but different fittings for each one but if this isn't a concern to you then just go with whatever you can pick up
__________________
Primary 1 - Santa's Morning Wood
Primary 2 - Santa's Morning Wood
Primary 3 - IPA
Primary 4 - IPA
Keg 1 - Dark lager 1.1
Keg 2 - Dark lager 1.2
Keg 3 - Dark lager 1.3
Keg 4 - Dark lager 1.4
Keg 5 - Coffee stout
Keg 6 - IPA redux
2012 to date - 10Gal
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01-18-2012, 08:45 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 97
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I'm going with pin locks now because they're cheaper (with ball locks trending close to $50 while I can still pick up pin locks for just under 30) -- and my lines right now are all set up for pin locks, but I'm going to re-do at least one set with the pin lock MFL disconnects and swivel nuts so that I can swap with Sanke or ball lock disconnects should the need ever arise. Mostly the Sanke in case I want a 1/6 barrel from Schlafly or something, because unless I score some free ball locks or something -- with fixed availability I really don't think they're going to drop in price -- I'll probably just stick with pin lock.
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01-18-2012, 08:58 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Joliet, IL
Posts: 576
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Ball locks: slightly skinnier, but slightly taller kegs.
Pin locks: slightly fatter, but slightly shorter kegs.
But the kicker is, the disconnects for the pin locks are a lot taller than the disconnects on the ball locks, so they're pretty close to needing the exact same amount of head room in a keezer / kegerator.
Every little millimeter matters when you're trying to cram as many corny kegs as possible into your keezer / kegerator, so this is why I think ball locks are worth the extra cash.
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01-18-2012, 09:04 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Indian Trail, NC
Posts: 377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LandoLincoln
Every little millimeter matters when you're trying to cram as many corny kegs as possible into your keezer / kegerator, so this is why I think ball locks are worth the extra cash.
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Amen to that. I can fit 4 ball locks on the floor in my keezer, and it's a very tight squeeze fitting all 4 in there. I was able to add one more on the hump when I added a 2x8 collar around the top.
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01-18-2012, 11:01 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Massachusetts, USA
Posts: 657
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Ball lock, ball lock, ball lock...I'm partial because that is what I started with and now have 7 total...everything ball lock.
I don't like pin locks because of the extra stubs on the posts and the extra metal on the couplers...smooth pins and couplers with the ball lock...again, partial.
Recently I found cheaper ball locks that are actually pin lock kegs that are retrofitted with ball lock posts.
__________________
On Deck Nada
Fermenting/Conditioning Simcoe IPA, Cascade IPA, Ginger Saison, Sour Brown
Almost Gone Steam, Midas Touch, Chile Lager, Chablis Mead, Sticky Red Raspberry Mead
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01-19-2012, 12:20 AM
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#7
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Beer me babe
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: St. George Utah
Posts: 3,813
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If I started over I go pin locks. My freezer can fit six of either.
__________________
What's brewing
Quote:
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Originally Posted by mashweasel
Its swimming upstream to teach people actual facts. People hear one thing from certain people that then it doesn't matter whats true or not.
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01-19-2012, 04:29 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 43
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I would suggest buying the chepest kegs you can find that are in good condition.
Use 1/4" MFL (threaded) hose connectors instead of barbed. You attach the quick disconnects (ball or pin) to the hoses on 1/4 inch swivel coupling nuts instead of permanantly attaching by inserting the barb into the hose and crimping/clamping.
I have a dozen kegs, half pin and half ball. It is usually easier to find 3 & 10 gallon ball lock and 5 gallon pin lock.
The quick disconnects are ~ $5 each. Like these (shown with the coupling nut):
Pin Lock with Quick Disconnect (Pair)
Using threaded quick disconnects frees you from worrying about the type of keg. It also lets you swap kegs with your brewing buddies.
With this doodad you can even hook up commercial kegs to your rig: 1/4" MFL Ball Lock / Pin Lock Quick Disconnect Set
-Sean
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01-19-2012, 05:01 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Ramsey & Akeley, Mn
Posts: 995
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It's possilbe to reverse your connections with ball locks, but not pin locks.
I use ball locks because footprint is usually a bigger issue than height when adding to kegerators/keezers.
__________________
Primary #1: Umlaut my Kolsch III #2:Empty
Secondary #1: Russian Imperial Stout#2: Empty
Kegged: Irish Red, Sunset Wheat clone
Bottles: Piker Liker Porter, Dubbel, Carmelite Tripel, Belgian Tripel, Apfelwine (Windsor)
On Deck: Dusseldorf Alt, Queen of Hearts SMaSH, Honkers Ale wanna-be, Stella clone, Oktoberfest
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01-20-2012, 06:40 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Wakefield, Ma
Posts: 67
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Thanks i think im going to go with the ball locks and definitely the MFL quick disconnects. that way if i want to grab a 1/6 barrel from my liquor store i can!
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